M17

So what is the new digital mode M17? It sounds like a gun at first, however I am sure you if you google M17 Ham Project you will not be a red flag to the police.

At the time of writing this, M17 is said to be a new digital radio protocol which is still in development, however currently available. It was first started in 2019. The M17 Working Group is a team of several people from around the world, but headed up by Wojciech (SP5WWP) in Poland.

As per their website, they have said that teh desire of the M17 project is to provide:

  • an Open-Source community
  • freely available and modifiable digital radio protocol
  • open hardware designs

M17 uses Frequency Division Multiple Access (FDMA) instead of Time Division Multiple Access (TDMA). FDMA in our case, allows for two 6.25kHz simultaneous links to be established on one 12.5kHz channel. It supports APRS however is not compatible with DMR. DMR is built for profesional use, and can be used for Ham operators, but can be clunky especially when it comes to writing code plugs.

There is more information available at this M17 website.

A lot of people have been talking about this project and you can see the current reflector list on this site. Maybe it is something you should try?

More information will be available as this project continues. I would value your comments on this project, does this sort of thing excite you or raise more questions than answers?


If you want to read other similar articles, here are some below:

GD-77 Won’t connect to PC

I have been using my Radioddity now for some years and love it.  Though upgrading this to the OpenGD77 opened a whole new world and it gets better all the time.

One issue I had for a period was not being able to connect to it via my PC. For some time, it worked, then it stopped. It was most frustrating as I could not run the radio as a local repeater anymore. I almost never update the codeplug now and update the firmware every few weeks, but I could not do any of this without my PC connection.

After checking I had the latest community programming software, I was stumped.

Roger, who is behind all the programming of this radio and who lives nearby, kindly gave me some advice over email.  He suggested it was a Com-Port issue.  And he was correct.  So, I have put this together to help others who may have the same problem as I did.

From windows 10, type in the search box Device Manager.  Then you will get a box like the following.

If you expand out the Ports section, you can see the issue I had straight away, I had the OpenGD77 on com port 4, and an Eltima Virtual Serial Port on com port 2-4 also.

I disabled the Eltima com ports listed by right clicking on them and nothing seemed to stop working, so then I uninstalled them both.  And straight away the com port worked through to the radio like it used to.

Great to have my GD77 back in action!  Hopefully this has helped you, if it has, please let me know.

There are some more interesting reads below that you may enjoy also.

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  • ProScan and ProScan Client Update
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  • ProScan and ProScan Client
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  • BlueDV Windows 10 GD-77
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  • Upgrade to OpenGD77
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  • The Radio Box
    How do you stop a hand held radio from falling and being damaged? Do you sometimes put the radio down on a bench or desk between overs…
  • Updating GD-77 Firmware
    Updating the firmware on the GD-77 can be daunting, as you can easily “brick” your radio. So be extremely careful. Make sure you understand why you are…
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DudeStar

Here is a free windows program that will connect your PC to:

  • DMR
  • Yaesu Fusion
  • DStar
  • M17
  • P25
  • NXDN

You can do all this without needing to purchase a radio. I prefer to use a radio, however I thought I would put this review together to help others who may not or want to try before they buy. Obviously you need to be licenced first.

The software was started by Doug, AD8DP (he’s contact details are on QRZ), and seems to work well. While the audio is better via a radio, this is an option you can use if even to only listen.

First step is to go to the Dudestar GitHub page at the following address: https://github.com/nostar/dudestar. You can see down the bottom of this page how to install for Lynx.

The next step is to run the executable file from the download releases link page here. https://github.com/nostar/dudestar/releases Just click on the Assets arrow, and press on the appropriate exe file. It is only about 20mb big, so wont take long to download.

Once downloaded, run the file. If you get a windows protection message, click on more info then run anyway. Alternatively right click on the file, go to properties and unblock. Everything runs from the downloaded file – nothing is installed.

Some of the settings to set

Settings Tab – vcoder should be set to software vecoder. You can set your playback and capture device if you don’t want it to be the default. Put in your call sign. Down the bottom of this tab is where you can update ID Files and Update host files – it doesn’t look like it did anything, but if you look on the log tab, you will see it does.

Main Tab – You can adjust the volume and mic gain on this page. It has been recommended to set the mic gain to 10% – 30% to start with. This will change depending on the microphone you use and even the mode you are on.

You can see the available modes via the list above

Getting connected

Lets get connected on Fusion as that is the easiest to start with. From the Main tab, in the mode area, select YSF. Then you can select a host or talk group you want to talk to.

Then press connect to connect. To transmit, press the TX button or space bar.

As someone keys up, you should see their call sign populated in the main tab.

Changing Modes

First disconnect via the main tab. If you want to try DMR, you will need to put in your DMR ID and password. Then via the main tab, select DMR, and select a master server. If you select a BM one then you will be on the BrandMeister network. Then type in the talk group and tick SWRX (software RX), and SWTX (software TX).

I think the software is a great start and with everything will be worked on and updated. I notice if you listen via your PC and radio at the same time, it will come through the PC first as the radio and hotspot is perhaps slower in decoding.

If you have any comments, please put them below. This page is only valid for the current version, and I am sure there will be changes.

Hints

One thing you can do it run the program more than once and monitor two different networks or talk groups. A great feature but unless you are looking at the screen, it can be hard to know which one spoke. So I either make the volumes different, or patch the sound through to the speakers in my monitors (as I have more than one).

There is a good discussion group here if you want to join the discussion. It is also about DudeStar which was written by the same person.

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Easy Radio Rack

Sometimes we try and build things and a lot of time abs money on our radio racks but have you thought outside the square?

A $15 shoe shelf makes a great radio rack

A simple shoe shelf makes a fantastic radio rack!

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  • Hotspot Fixing Packet Loss with AutoCal
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  • OpenSpot from the Start
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Welle.io

Welle.io is a DAB and DAB+ software defined radio (SDR). It runs on Windows, Linux and embedded devices like the Raspberry Pi 2 and 3.

You can find the program and where to download it from their website.

Using the Software

With all these things, the software is updated regularly. You can see on the page where you download it from, what changes have been made with each version. The first thing I struggled to find was how to tune in the stations. I will show you how to further on in this post.

This is how the program looked while writing this review

Settings

If you select the three dots up the far top right, you can select settings. I recommend keeping them as is unless you want to change something here. The Auto Detect should select your SDR that is connected.

If your keen, you can also check out the Expert Settings from the same area.

Tuning in Stations

Towards the top left of the interface is a All Stations button. To the right of this is three little buttons. Click on this and select Start Station Scan. This will give you a list of stations once it is finished. You can star the ones you like to create a favorited list.

Changing Display

You can add displays by pressing the orange plus button down the bottom right. Some of the displays change as you hover over them, others have waterfalls. They can be removed or added as needed. I assume these will change all the time as the program is developed.

Recording

The app allows you to record the station you are listening to. By default, recordings are MP2 files stored in the /tmp folder.

Hotkeys

There are several hotkeys that can be turned on or off. They included m = mute audio, r = start or stop recording, – = switch to previous service, + = switch to the next service and so on.

Slideshow

Some stations transmit a slideshow. I have usually found this is just the station’s logo or the current program’s logo. The program is able to display this after it receives it without errors.

Summary

In summary, I highly recommend this easy to use software with your SDR device. It is extremely easy to set up and get going. At the time of writing this, there are only a couple of YouTube video’s and hardly any reviews. The YouTube video’s appear to be from the developer and just show you how to set it up. I believe this simple program will become popular in time mainly because of how easy it is to setup.

I hope you enjoy the read, please let me know below what you thought or have any comments.

Other Reads

Enjoyed the read, here are some other things you may enjoy.

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Hotspot Fixing Packet Loss with AutoCal

The thing with digital communications, it can be extremely complicated. It only takes one tick box to be ticked incorrectly to take your station off the air.  Just as easily one tick box will get you on the air and sounding great.

With Analogue, it was all about antenna gain, SWA, power and height.  Digital is vastly different, especially via a hotspot, as it is all about lack of power, mic gain and packet loss.  Packet loss can be tricky and is often put down to a bad internet connection.  However, that is not always the reason, and if your internet is good, and your packet loss is above 1%, then it can get tricky to know why.

Assuming you have a good connection, you have your hotspot close to your modem if it is via wifi and your radio is also close to your hotspot, then here is something you may want to try.  I will explain how to do it using an OpenSpot, as that is what I am using, however, most hotspots may have the same or similar features.

After many years of using the same hotspot, I noticed more and more the hotspot didn’t seem to recognise my signal from my radio.  I could hear fine, and my hotspot even said it was receiving my signal, but my call didn’t come up on the dashboard and the other person couldn’t receive my signal unless it did come up on the dashboard.

It started 3 in 1 times I would trigger the hotspot like normal, then it changed to 1 in 3.  It got worse before it made the hotspot almost unusable.

My hotspot, an OpenSpot2, has a AutoCal option and will analyse an incoming signal and tries to find out the frequency difference between the OpenSpot and the transmitter. They suggest that you only run AutoCal feature if the openSPOT2 shows BER above 1% for your radio’s transmission, as errors in the voice stream usually won’t be noticeable if the BER is below 1%.

You can see this on the OpenSpot by going to the Status screen and open the BER graph and transmit. A quicker way is to look when you transmit on the dashboard of your OpenSpot, you can see below the BER is next to the B, and this example has a loss of 1.3%.

Dashboard showing BER loss.

With the Openspot, press the quick setup button, select the type of radio you are using (I am using a DMR radio), and then you can see the AutoCal button.

All you need to do is press that AutoCal button.  Then scroll down and you will see it doing the three phases. Make sure the correct modem mode is selected. Hold the PTT button on your radio until all 3 phases are completed. Once complete, you can try the echo test to check you are working well.

Then you can return to normal use and the BER should have reduced to well below 1%.

OpenSpot have more information here in their user manual.

I hope this helped you, and if you enjoyed it, here are some other posts I have done. Please don’t forget to put your email address in to make sure you get the latest posts.

OpenSpot from the Start

I have spoken to a few people who have felt a bit overwhelmed setting up their OpenSpot from the start. In saying that, I have always been surprised how many people are on digital, some of them have no computer experience at all.  It only takes one tickbox to be selected wrongly and you are off the air totally.  So clearly there are a lot of helpful Amateurs out there.  This website is my way of helping, as I can’t be all over the world to help.  I have put things of interest as I find them on my site.  If you find it interesting, please subscribe or let me know.

In saying that, OpenSpot has been setup to be as easy as possible with a lot of thought behind it.  While I am not claiming this is the best hotspot, I am saying I have two of them and found them great to use at home, mobile, and portable.

This is what I do with my openspot2.

Starting from the beginning

Plug your OpenSpot2 in

Turn your mobile phone wifi (or could use a tablet or laptop with wifi) on and connect to your openSPOT2 AP

If the popup page does not show up (it may take a while to load), type in openspot2.local in a web browser

A welcome screen will ask you to select your country

Scan or manually select your home wifi

Press connect and type in your password for your home wifi

After pressing ok, you will get a message saying this hotspot is going to connect to the wifi now instead of directly connecting to your phone

You can then connect to it via your phone or device that is connected to the home wifi.  I recommend you do this via a pc as you get more functions on screen, however you can do it via a mobile phone with a smaller screen. To connect, go to openspot2.local in a web browser.  However, if you have two openspot2’s on your network, as I do, you will need to log into your network modem and check the actual ip address of your openspot.

If you can not find it on your network, then I suggest you go back to your phone and see if you can connect to your openspot again via wifi.  If it is not there, you may need to unplug the power cord and plug it back in a minute or so later, or press the button next to the power cord until the light goes white to reset it and start again.

Once you connect via the wifi network to your Openspot for the first time you will get a Quick Setup Screen.

Put in your call sign and the DMR ID will auto populate.  You can put in your NXDN ID also.

Select the type of radio you will be using to connect to the OpenSpot.

Type in the frequency you want to use while using the Openspot.  Make sure it is a different frequency to all other hotspots so you don’t get hotspot feedback. Keep colour code as 1. Then select the network you want to connect to.

Enjoyed the read? Don’t forget to subscribe. Below are some other interesting reads:

Treehouse

An unusual name, but a catchy name no less, just like Peanut that was written by the same person, David PA7LIM. If you like Peanut, then you will like this project also. This project, like Peanut, includes some amazing coding and thinking.

Launched in 2020, the main website for Treehouse is found off David’s web site. This project is a YSF reflector with multiple rooms.

Dashboard

You can see the dashboard via this link http://europelink.pa7lim.nl/ it is a very similar layout to the Peanut one.

If you open the above dashboard, you will see down the left side in the Room Control section, a message stating your hotspot is not logged in to this reflector.

There are several ways you can connect, but here are a few in no particular order.

BlueDV

A friend of mine, Chris, put this video together. He uses BlueDV to get onto it.

YSF – via your hotspot

As I use an Openspot2, my instructions will show you how I do it, however I am sure you can apply similar to your hotspot should you have a different one.

First you need to connect to the YSF reflector called EUROPELINK, and according to the YSD reflector register, this has an ID number of 00007. If you don’t know how I found this, go to the YSF Reflector Registry page and type in EUROPELINK in the search box, and you can see the ID number of 0007.

Back to the Openspot2, I select Quick Setup, then I select DMR, as I am using a DMR radio, then select YSFReflector then in the Server box, I type in 00007 or EUROPELINK, to select that reflector. Doing this will connect my DMR radio to the YSF system.

Almost instantly, the Room Control section of the dashboard has updated to my call sign and I now have a drop-down list where I can select which room I want to connect to. You can then select the room you want.

As you transmit, you will see your call in the Active QSO’s screen.

While this is not connected to the Peanut Dashboard, there will be rooms that go across to each other. The Online Stations section of the Dashboard has the time stations connected.

There is a new AU-NZ room which is good and was quickly made after it was requested to David. Some rooms link just to themselves, like the English room and so on, while others connect beyond the internet. Remember this reflector will get busier as time goes on.

Also, this setup is still very new, and like Peanut, it took a little while to become popular.  Having said that, Peanut took off quickly and given the success of that, and a lot of people at home during the 2020 Pandemic, I believe this will take off quickly also.

Hope you enjoyed this post. Please remember to follow this blog by putting in your email address so you get posts as soon as they are posted.

Want to see other projects that are similar?

Here are some other posts we have done that are similar:

DROID-Star

After talking to a friend just to the north of me, he told me about the app DROID-Star for Android. As I only have apple devices, this wasn’t initially an option for me, however I do have an Android TV box which I use for Amateur Radio, so will review it from that device.

At the time of writing this review, I must state it is an Early Access version. It has been updated slightly since.

This app connects to D-Star and Yaesu System Fusion reflectors and repeaters via UDP and decodes audio and data in software. No AMBE hardware is required. It is written by Doug McLain.

Start screen to DROID-Star

The two option menus at the top of the screen allow you to Reload DMR IDs, Reload host files, and check the current version. I recommend reloading these.

From here you have the following options:

  • Mode – select what mode you want, this could be REF, XRF, DCS, YSF, DMR, P25 or NXDN.
  • Before pressing connect, select your Host, and fill in the other details.

Once working you will be able to listen into the room you select and it will display the call sign and even caller ID (if there is one), on the user that is transmitting.

As I said earlier, this app will no doubt be updated. I will try and keep this review updated as the app changes, but this may not be possible. Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed. If there are other apps you would like us to look at or think we should know about, please let me know. Don’t forget to subscribe to our posts by putting in your email address on the above follow us page.

I also spoke to Doug AD8DP, who wrote this app, and he said to mention that the app is very much in beta development stage. He plans on users being able to add custom reflectors/servers and so on. He also wants to add TX ability with the choice between on board software IMBE/AMBE encoding or remote AMBE server. He also said to me that he APK installer file can be downloaded directly here for Amazon Fire users and others without access to the Google Play Store: http://www.dudetronics.com/radio/DroidStar.apk

UPDATE:

I have now heard many people use this app with great ease. The biggest question I have had is what is the password. Just put in your DMR network username and password.

One of the good rooms is YSF with Host 0-0-CQ-UK-Aussie. Then again, I am from downunder, but you might hear me on this one.

Please post and questions or comments below. Or join the discussion at https://groups.io/g/DroidStar

If you enjoyed this read, please don’t forget to subscribe to our page so you get updates every time we post new updates.

Using DMR with DROID-Star

I have found most people struggle to use this app on DMR. DMR requires a few other options to be set as other networks do not need all these filled out correctly or at all.

After you have installed the software, go to settings area and put in the following. First put in your call sign then your DMR ID number. If you don’t have one, then you will need to get one.

You should then update the ESSID number other than blank. If it is a second radio, I use 2.

Then put in your Password that you put in for your BrandMeister account. If your unsure what that is, go to BrandMeister Self Care area and set it again.

Once the above has been done, click on ‘Update Hosts” then “Update ID files”, and this will make sure everything is updated.

Then return to the main screen and change the mode to DMR. Change the host to BM_3102_United_States (for example, this can be changed later). Then enter the talk group you want to go to adn press the connect button. Press the big blue button and start testing.

I suggest you test it on a quiet talk group and if you have another radio, listen to what you sound like. Adjust the mic gain as often this can be set to high. You don’t want to test it on a very busy talk group – it only upsets people.

Just remember, DROID-Star is being made by a volunteer, so updates will come in time. Currently it is really important you check your audio first as it can be very clear you are using a PC and not a radio.

Hope this has helped. Please let me know. Below are some other interesting reads you may enjoy also.

Other Interesting Reads

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  • Treehouse
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  • Software Defined Radio (SDR)
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  • BlueDV Windows 10 GD-77
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  • Iphone won’t download photos
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  • ProScan and ProScan Client Update
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    I went into the device manager and found the error, my cable no longer worked. This same issue happened to a USB Card reader also.…

Software Defined Radio (SDR)

If you don’t have one of the latest and greatest expensive scanners, you will struggle to listen to a lot of transmissions. While there is still a lot of Analogue transmissions today, even a lot still on AM especially when it comes to Aviation, however most have gone to digital.

There are several reasons for this, but put simply, digital seems to have a longer range, is clearer and you can do a lot more using just the one frequency.

For the hobbyist, to make matters hard, there are many digital modes.  P25, DMR, NXDM are just a few.  Some of these are popular, and some are not.  Then within these digital modes are different ways of using them.  For example, DMR can have T1, T2 or higher, where T stands for Tier.  What this is the radio will do one micro second for T1, then switch to T2 for the next micro second.  Effectively you can have two different conversations on the same frequency, and although every second micro second is lost, to the user you wouldn’t know. This is just one example of DMR.  You can also transmit text messages, your location and so on, all behind the user that is talking and on the one frequency.  So instead of needing to pay for 2 frequencies for two channels, you can have two talk groups on the one frequency.

And this is just the start.  It is clear my old scanner won’t cope with this at all.

However, you can do it all at minimal cost on your PC.  While your PC isn’t as portable as your scanner, it is a lot cheaper alternative and give you an idea on what you can here.

It is a bit fiddly though, and can take a while to setup.  One tick box wrong can silence everything.

Here is what I did, however there are many options, longer than your arm, so do what you think is best for your situation.

When Digital TV came in, a lot of people had trouble receiving it, and additional repeater stations had to be installed along with a lot of home TV antenna’s being upgraded.  So, whatever you do, make sure your antenna isn’t letting you down.  You can try what you have first if you want, but if it doesn’t work, have a think if you need to upgrade your antenna.

I downloaded AirSpy, a program where you can tune in the frequency and add a lot of plugins if you want to.  While this program is rather technical and can be hard for the first-time user, after using it a little while I think it is very well set out.  You can see this program in the picture below where I have the number 1 in red on it. I recommend you download the Community Package with Plugins. If you want some tips on how to get going, I recommend going to this page that has an easy step by step setup guide. Remember, there are so many options regarding this software so try not to get overwhelmed. Just look at what you need to, for example, don’t worry at this stage about tracking aircrafts – a good project for tomorrow!

The next step is to buy a SDR.  This can cost almost as much or as little as you want.  An entry one can cost somewhere between $30 and $50 Australian dollars.  However, I recommend you buy it via the AirSpy store, as there have been some imitations out there.  This is where I got mine from if that helps you. However there are heaps of other options available on this page also. Before it arrives however, you can use the AirSpy software to tap into other shared SDR users that share their devices over the internet.  There may be one close to you.  This post isn’t about this though or the detail of setting all this up, as it will go on for to long.  It is more about what you can do fairly easily.

An example of my interface. 1 = Airspy screen, 2 = wave, 3 = Dos screen, 4 = Decode box, 5 = Talk Groups

Once you get your dongle, plug in your dongle. Do not install any of the software that it came with (if any), and ensure that you wait a few seconds for plug and play to finish attempting to install the dongle (it will either fail or install Windows DVB-T TV drivers). If you’ve already installed the DVB-T drivers that came on the CD bundled with some dongles, uninstall them first. If you got the same dongle as I did, this is what I did to get it going:

In the folder where you extracted the sdrsharp files find the file called zadig.exe. Right click this file and select “Run as administrator”.

In Zadig, go to “Options->List All Devices” and make sure this option is checked. If you are using Windows 10, in some cases you may need to also uncheck “Ignore Hubs or Composite Parents”.

Once running Zidgig, select “Bulk-In, Interface (Interface 0)” from the drop down list. Note on some PCs you may see something like RTL2832UHIDIR or RTL2832U instead of the bulk in interface. This is also a valid selection. Do not select “USB Receiver (Interface 0) or Interface 1” or anything else or you will overwrite that driver! Double check that USB ID shows “0BDA 2838 00” as this indicates that the dongle is selected.

We need to install the WinUSB driver, so also ensure that WinUSB is selected in the box after the arrow next to where it says Driver (this is the default selection). – Note that there has been some confusion for a few people over this step. The goal is to install the WinUSB driver. So to be clear, the box to the left of the arrow shows the currently installed driver, whereas the box to the right of the arrow shows the driver that will be installed in the next step. The first time you open zadig the box on the left will show either ‘None’, or the default DVB-T drivers installed by Windows (RTL2832UUSB), depending on your Windows configuration and version.

Click Replace Driver. On some PC’s you might get a warning that the publisher cannot be verified, but just accept it by clicking on “Install this driver software anyway”. This will install the drivers necessary to run the dongle as a software defined radio. Note that you may need to run zadig.exe again if you move the dongle to another USB port, or want to use two or more dongles together.

Open SDRSharp.exe and set the “Source” drop down box to ‘RTL-SDR (USB)’. This “Source” tab is on the top left. (Note that the first time you do this you may get a smart screen message indicating that Windows has protected your PC, this is a false alarm. Simply click on “more info” and then “run anyway”).

Press the Play button (the right facing triangle). Your RTL-SDR software radio should now be set up and ready to use! If everything has worked you should be able to start tuning to frequencies.

Important! Don’t forget to also adjust the RF gain settings by pressing the Configure button (looks like a cog) up the top next to the Play button. By default the RF gain is set at zero. A gain of zero will probably receive nothing but very strong broadcast FM – increase the gain until you start seeing other signals.

Decode Digital Signals using DSD Plus

So now your on the air, you can take it to the next level now and decode the digital signals you haven’t been able to in the past.

Here’s what you are going to need:

Uncompressed DSDPlus and DSDPlusDLLs. Copy the DLLs into the extracted DSDPlus folder. Now all the DSD Plus files are in the same folder.

Then extract DSD, then copy SDRSharp.DSD.dll into the Sdrsharp folder. Copy the text in the text file and add it to the plugins.xml file in the Sharsharp folder.

Extract VBCable. Find the setup file (use x64 if you have that pc) and run the file as administrator. Then install driver. You will have to reboot afterwards.

Then have a look from 5:58 in the video below and do the following.

After that, open SDR Sharp.

Go to Audio, and for the output, select cable input – this will pump the audio from the SDR to the Virtual cable input.

From DSD interface, select cable imput here. This will mean the audio from the SDR now goes down the Virtual Cable to the DSD software. Select configure in the DSD interface and change the input audio device number to the input of AirSpy and not something else. Once you have done this, test by changing frequency or pressing the stop button, the blue wave box (number 2 in the above picture) should stop.

If you are not sure what numbers to use, the dos screen that opens when you start DSD has the numbers of input and output devices. Make sure you set this correctly else your input will not work, or you output will give you no sound. Once you have set it correctly, press Create Command Line to update.

On the Decoder Options tab, you can leave it at Auto Detect, but if you know what it is, then you can manually select the mode you want. Once you select the mode you want, press Create command line then ok so the settings get updated.

Tune into the correct frequency that has the digital transmission, then enable aux audio output. In DSD Interface, press enable Aux Audio Output.

Once on a digital frequency, press Start DSD. It then opens a dos screen, this will tell you where the audio output will be, eg speakers. Audio input device will be where you selected on DSD plus, which is the virtual cable.

If it all works, you should hear slot 1 in your left speaker, and slot 2 in your right speaker. If not, check you are on a frequency that has a transmission. Then the graph (2 above) is moving (if not your audio to DSD isn’t getting there), then the dos screen should have lots of text running (if not it may not be a digital transmission).


If your still struggling getting this set up, try the following web site: SDR Users Guide.

There are heaps of more information I could post here, but here are some of the plugins I recommend:

Plugins

Shuttle Plugin

Scanner Frequency – here is a video on this plugin.

DSD Plus – as mentioned above. Here is another video to look at.


Further Reading

Enjoyed that? Please add your comments below or let us know how you went. I hope it was useful. Remember to subscribe so you don’t miss out on our future posts. Here are some other similar articles you may enjoy:

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