15 Metre band

The 15 metre band is one of the most popular HF amateur radio bands for long-distance communication, offering an excellent balance between reliability and worldwide reach.

Frequency Range

The standard frequency range for the 15m band is 21.000 MHz to 21.450 MHz. Within this range, different segments are commonly used for specific modes: CW (Morse code), digital modes like FT8 cluster around 21.074 MHz, and SSB voice communications are usually active above 21.150 MHz. These frequency allocations make it easy for operators to find activity depending on their preferred operating mode. Check your area as this is Australia settings.

Set Frequencies

On the lower end of the band, CW (Morse code) activity is concentrated but they can be anywhere within the band.

For digital modes, there are a few very well-known frequencies. The most popular is 21.074 MHz, which is the standard calling frequency for FT8, one of the most widely used weak-signal digital modes. Just above that, around 21.090–21.100 MHz, you’ll find modes like FT4, PSK31, and other digital activity depending on band conditions and operator preference.

In the upper portion of the band, SSB voice communications dominate. A widely recognised DX calling frequency is 21.300 MHz, where stations often call CQ looking for international contacts. General SSB ragchewing and contesting typically take place between 21.150 and 21.450 MHz, with activity spreading out depending on how busy the band is.

There are also a few special-purpose or informal gathering spots. For example, 21.360 MHz is sometimes used by international nets, and various maritime or traveller nets may appear in the upper SSB segment. During contests, however, these informal frequencies can become very busy or shift as operators spread across the band.

Overall, these set frequencies on 15 metres act like meeting points:

  • 21.000–21.450 MHz → CW DX activity
  • 21.074 MHz → FT8 digital frequency
  • 21.070 – 21.150 MHz → other digital modes
  • 21.300 MHz → SSB DX calling frequency
  • 21.150–21.450 MHz → general SSB voice

Knowing these frequencies helps you quickly find activity and understand what to expect when tuning across the 15m band.

Ionosphere

The 15 metre band works primarily through ionospheric propagation, specifically via the F layer of the ionosphere. Signals transmitted on 21 MHz travel upward and are refracted back to Earth, allowing DX (long-distance communication) over thousands of kilometres. This band is highly dependent on solar activity, especially the sunspot cycle. During periods of high solar activity, the maximum usable frequency (MUF) increases, allowing 15m signals to propagate globally with strong signals. During low solar activity, the band can appear quiet or “closed,” especially for long-distance paths.

What can you expect

Operators can expect fast-changing propagation conditions on 15 metres. When the band is open, signals are often strong, with low noise compared to lower HF bands like 40m or 80m. This makes it ideal for DX contacts, contesting, and digital modes. However, when the band is closed, there may be little to no activity except for occasional short skip (regional contacts) or sporadic openings. Unlike lower bands, 15m does not usually support reliable nighttime propagation, as the ionosphere loses its ability to refract higher frequencies after sunset.

Antennas

Common 15 metre antennas include dipole antennas, vertical antennas, and directional beam antennas (Yagi). A simple half-wave dipole for 15m is about 7 metres long (total length), making it relatively compact and easy to install. Vertical antennas are popular for low-angle radiation, which is ideal for long-distance DX. More advanced operators often use Yagi beams mounted on towers, which provide gain and directionality, significantly improving performance on this band.

Performance

The interaction with ionospheric layers is key to understanding 15m performance. The F1 and F2 layers are responsible for most long-distance propagation, particularly during the daytime. The D layer, which forms during daylight hours, can absorb lower-frequency signals but has less effect on 15m, helping keep noise levels lower. Occasionally, sporadic E propagation can also open the band, especially in summer, allowing unexpected medium-distance contacts even when the F layer is weak.

Band opens

The 15 metre band is generally open during daylight hours, especially from mid-morning to late afternoon. Peak performance often occurs around local noon, when the ionosphere is most ionised. Openings are more frequent during solar maximum years, and less reliable during solar minimum. The band typically closes after sunset, although limited openings can sometimes occur around greyline (sunrise and sunset), offering unique DX opportunities.

Summary

Overall, the 15 metre amateur radio band is valued for its strong DX capability, low noise levels, and relatively small antenna size requirements. It is an excellent band for both beginners and experienced operators who want to explore worldwide HF communication, especially during favourable solar conditions.


  • Solar Data & Propagation
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Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) in HF Radio Propagation

Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) is an important concept in HF radio propagation and amateur radio communications. It refers to the highest frequency that can be used for reliable communication between two locations by reflecting off the ionosphere. If a radio signal is transmitted above the MUF, it will not return to Earth and will instead pass through the ionosphere into space, making long-distance communication impossible on that frequency.

In high frequency (HF) bands between 3 MHz and 30 MHz, radio signals rely on the ionosphere to travel beyond the horizon. The ionosphere contains charged particles that can refract radio waves back toward the Earth, enabling long-distance or DX communication. Lower HF frequencies tend to bend more easily, while higher frequencies require stronger ionisation to reflect. The MUF represents the cutoff point where signals stop being reflected and begin escaping into space.

The MUF changes constantly due to several environmental factors. Solar activity, including sunspots and solar radiation, has a major influence, with higher solar activity increasing ionisation and raising the MUF. The time of day also plays a role, with daytime conditions generally producing a higher MUF due to stronger ionisation, while nighttime conditions lower the MUF as the ionosphere weakens. Additionally, the distance between stations (radio path length) affects the MUF, with longer paths often requiring higher frequencies to achieve successful propagation.

Another important concept related to MUF is the Lowest Usable Frequency (LUF). While MUF defines the upper limit, LUF defines the lowest frequency that can be used effectively without excessive signal loss or noise. The usable frequency range for communication lies between these two limits, often referred to as the optimum working frequency range. Operators typically choose a frequency slightly below the MUF for the most reliable performance.

Understanding Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) is essential for amateur radio operators, particularly those interested in HF DXing, contesting, and propagation prediction. By knowing the current MUF, operators can select the most effective bands, such as 20 metres, 17 metres, or 15 metres, and better understand why certain bands open or close throughout the day.

In summary, MUF is the highest frequency that will be reflected by the ionosphere for a given path and time, making it a critical factor in successful long-distance HF radio communication.

This one is for your Shack including all bands

How do you check MUF in real time?

Checking the Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) in real time is something many amateur radio operators do to decide which HF bands are open for DX communication. There are several easy ways to monitor live MUF and ionospheric conditions using online tools and software.

Online MUF Maps and Propagation Tools

One of the most popular methods is using real-time propagation websites. These display global or regional MUF based on ionospheric data (foF2 measurements).

Common tools:

  • Space Weather / Propagation sites (e.g. NOAA, SpaceWeatherLive)
  • VOACAP Online (predicts HF propagation paths)
  • DXMaps / PSKReporter (shows real contacts happening live)

Ionosonde Data (foF2)

A more technical way to check MUF is by looking at ionosonde readings, specifically the foF2 value.

  • foF2 = critical frequency of the F2 layer
  • MUF is roughly calculated from this value depending on path angle

Using SDR to Observe Band Openings

With your RTL-SDR + SDR# setup, you can actually see MUF effects:

  • Tune across HF bands
  • Watch the waterfall display
  • Look for signals appearing/disappearing

Beacon and Reverse Beacon Networks

Another real-time method is using beacon networks:

  • NCDXF/IARU beacons transmit on multiple HF bands
  • Reverse Beacon Network (RBN) shows who is hearing what
Feel free to print this out for your shack

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Amateur TV

Amateur Radio Television (ATV), often called “ham TV,” is a niche part of amateur television where licensed radio operators transmit live video and audio over radio frequencies instead of traditional broadcast networks. It is essentially an extension of amateur (ham) radio, using higher bandwidth signals to carry moving images, typically on UHF and microwave bands. Unlike commercial TV, ATV is non-commercial and used for experimentation, hobby activity, and technical learning.

In Melbourne Australia, amateur radio TV activity is centred around the well-known VK3RTV system. This is a digital amateur television repeater that broadcasts across much of the metropolitan area, allowing operators to transmit and receive video signals. It operates continuously and uses modern digital TV standards (DVB-T2 HD), transmitting on 445.5 MHz. The system supports multiple input formats (such as DVB-S/S2 and DVB-T) and provides wide coverage across Melbourne and even towards Geelong.

Melbourne’s ATV community has a long history, with amateur television transmissions dating back to the late 1970s. Originally analogue, the system transitioned to digital broadcasting in the 2000s and was re-established in 2020 after a temporary shutdown. Today it is considered technically advanced, featuring multiplexed digital channels, HD video, and even internet-linked streaming to international amateur TV networks.

Activity in Melbourne ATV is typically community-driven. Enthusiasts participate in scheduled “net nights” (weekly on-air meetups), experimental broadcasts, and live video contacts between stations. Operators may transmit a wide range of content including technical demonstrations, hobby projects, model aircraft footage, or informal chats. Voice coordination is often done on separate 2meter FM frequency, 147.400 MHz, while video is transmitted through the ATV repeater.

Amateur TV is also known as High-Scan TV. A related but distinct mode is Slow-Scan Television, which is also used by amateur radio operators in Australia. Instead of live video, SSTV sends still images over radio, taking several seconds to minutes per picture. This mode is popular for long-distance (HF) communication and even space-related transmissions, complementing the faster “full-motion” ATV systems used locally in Melbourne.

Overall, amateur Radio TV in Melbourne is a small but technically rich hobby combining radio engineering, digital broadcasting, and experimentation. It operates outside mainstream media, relying on licensed operators, shared infrastructure like VK3RTV, and a collaborative community that keeps the technology evolving.

This view shows how I got involved, and found out how to reveive it with the help of people in this video. Although I only show one set top box, I actually have two, plus two screens, so I can receive channel 1 and 2 at the same time. These two channels are independent of each other in some ways, but transmit from the same site.

I really hope you enjoy this video, and it encourages you to this part of the hobby. Please put what comments or questions you have below as I will try to answer them. I am not an expert in this area at all, but still learning and hope to one day transmit onto VK3RTV. If you live away from Melbourne, you can still access it via Discord (see link on video) or via Youtube as shown in the video.

Thank you again to Peter, Steven and Clint for your your endless help.

Some good links are available here:
http://www.vk3rtv.com/
https://amateurradio.com.au/repeaters/vk3rtv
https://www.emdrc.com.au/datv-repeater-vk3rtv/

Have a look at my video for more info


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Baofeng UV-5R Mini

The Baofeng UV-5R Mini handheld radio is a popular and affordable dual-band amateur radio transceiver widely used by beginners and experienced ham radio operators. Designed as a compact version of the original UV-5R, this small and lightweight VHF/UHF walkie talkie offers solid performance for everyday communication, making it a common choice for those getting started in amateur radio (ham radio).

The UV-5R Mini operates on both VHF (136–174 MHz) and UHF (400–520 MHz) frequencies, supporting communication on the 2 metre and 70 centimetre amateur bands. With a typical output power of around 5 watts, it is suitable for short to medium range communication, including simplex operation and repeater use. Many versions include features such as CTCSS and DCS tones, allowing access to repeaters and private channel setups.

This compact handheld radio includes a range of useful functions, such as 128 memory channels, a built-in FM broadcast radio receiver, VOX hands-free operation, and a small LED flashlight. Some newer UV-5R Mini models also support USB-C charging and Bluetooth programming, making them easier to configure using smartphone apps or software like CHIRP programming software on a computer.

Compared to the standard UV-5R, the Mini version is more portable and pocket-friendly, though it often comes with a smaller battery and display. Despite the reduced size, the RF performance is generally similar, making it a convenient option for portable use, hiking, or as a backup two-way radio.

The Baofeng UV-5R Mini is known for being a budget-friendly handheld transceiver, which is one of its biggest advantages. It provides access to amateur radio communication, repeater networks, and frequency scanning at a very low cost.

In Australia, the UV-5R Mini can be used legally for listening to radio frequencies, but transmitting requires an amateur radio licence issued by the ACMA. It is important to note that this radio is not approved for UHF CB (477 MHz) or commercial radio use, which are governed by different regulations.

In real-world use, the Baofeng UV-5R Mini typically achieves a range of 1 to 3 kilometres in urban environments, and up to 5 to 10 kilometres or more when using repeaters or operating from elevated locations. Performance can be significantly improved by upgrading to a better antenna or connecting the radio to an external base antenna.

Overall, the Baofeng UV-5R Mini dual-band handheld radio is a great entry-level option for those interested in ham radio communication, repeater operation, and portable VHF/UHF use. It is especially useful as a backup radio or learning tool.

Please comment if you have any thoughts.

If you go via this link, you will get a discount:
https://radioddity.refr.cc/bensangster then search for your item

Direct link here:


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Lightning Storm & HF Radio

HF radio and lightning storms are closely connected because lightning creates strong radio frequency interference that affects HF radio communication (3–30 MHz). High Frequency radio is commonly used for amateur radio (ham radio), marine radio, aviation HF communication, emergency communications, and long-distance shortwave listening. HF signals travel long distances by reflecting off the ionosphere, which makes them ideal for worldwide communication without repeaters — but also makes them very sensitive to atmospheric noise.

During a lightning storm, each lightning strike produces a powerful burst of electromagnetic interference (EMI) across a wide range of frequencies. This is known as atmospheric radio noise or QRN (natural static noise). On an HF receiver, lightning interference sounds like loud static crashes, popping, and crackling across the band. The noise can raise the HF noise floor significantly, making weak signals difficult or impossible to copy.

Lightning interference does not need to be local to affect your station. Distant thunderstorms hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away can generate broadband RF noise that travels via ground wave and skywave propagation. Because HF signals reflect off the ionosphere, lightning noise can also propagate long distances. This is why operators often experience heavy static on the 40 metre band or 20 metre band even when the weather is clear overhead.

HF radio is more affected by lightning than VHF or UHF radio because lower frequencies are more susceptible to atmospheric static. Storm activity in tropical regions, including northern Australia during the wet season, can noticeably increase static levels across the HF bands in southern states such as Victoria.

Using HF radio during a thunderstorm can also pose a safety risk. Lightning strikes can induce high voltage into antenna systems, travel down coaxial feedlines, damage transceivers, destroy power supplies, and in severe cases cause fire. Even a nearby lightning strike can create a voltage surge through electromagnetic induction.

To protect HF radio equipment from lightning damage, operators commonly install lightning arrestors, use proper station grounding systems, fit surge protection devices, and disconnect antenna feedlines during storms. Many amateur radio operators physically unplug their coax cable when thunderstorms approach as an added precaution.

Lightning detection systems and weather monitoring networks also use radio frequency monitoring to track storm activity. The radio noise generated by lightning can be detected over long distances, making RF monitoring an effective method for identifying thunderstorm activity.


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Radtel P8 PoC radio

The Radtel P8 PoC radio is a Push-to-Talk over Cellular (PoC) device that looks like a traditional walkie-talkie but communicates using 4G/LTE mobile networks instead of UHF/VHF radio frequencies. This means its effective range is not limited to a few kilometres like standard two-way radios, but instead depends on cellular coverage, allowing communication across cities, states, or even countries wherever there is mobile signal.

Unlike conventional radios that require radio licenses, repeaters, or line-of-sight, the Radtel P8 works more like a dedicated PTT phone with a SIM card. Many packages include a pre-installed SIM and a period of included data/service, after which a small ongoing fee may apply. It supports private calls and group calls, making it suitable for team communication, logistics, security staff, events, and transport coordination.

The device includes practical hardware features such as a 1.77-inch display, 3000 mAh battery, USB-C charging, and a durable metal (zinc alloy) housing. Audio is typically clear because voice is transmitted digitally over LTE, though there can be slight latency compared to instant RF radios. Some versions also support dual SIM slots for improved network flexibility.

A key limitation is that the Radtel P8 is completely dependent on mobile network coverage. In areas with no cellular signal—such as remote bushland, underground locations, or disaster zones—it will not function like a traditional UHF/VHF two-way radio. For this reason, it is best understood as an LTE communicator with PTT, rather than a replacement for conventional radios used in off-grid environments.

In summary, the Radtel P8 PoC radio is ideal for users needing long-distance push-to-talk communication, nationwide coverage, and team coordination without radio licensing, provided they operate within areas that have reliable 4G mobile network coverage.

I was really happy with this radio. Not only was it strong, but it was small also. The battery lasted a very long time and had a quick charge also. I’ve used it several ways for different purposes.

A link to the radio is below. Value your thoughts on it also in the comments below.

https://www.radtels.com/products/radtel-p8-rapid-radios-unlimited-range-5000-miles-above-walkie-talkie-nationwide-handheld-poc-for-adults-rechargeable-ptt-long-distance-walkie-talkies-with-lights2-pack?variant=44750867529936


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  • Radtel P8 PoC radio
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What is an Antenna Coupler

An antenna coupler (also called an antenna tuner or matching network) is a device used in radio systems to ensure impedance matching between a transmitter and an antenna. Most transmitters are designed for a specific impedance, commonly 50 ohms, while antennas often vary depending on frequency and design.

When the impedance is not matched, reflected power occurs, creating a high Standing Wave Ratio (SWR). This means part of the transmitted signal travels back toward the transmitter instead of being radiated. High SWR can reduce performance and potentially damage the transmitter.

The antenna coupler solves this problem by using capacitors and inductors to adjust the electrical characteristics of the antenna system. These components transform the antenna’s impedance so it appears correct to the transmitter, which reduces SWR and allows power to flow efficiently.

While an antenna coupler improves power transfer efficiency and protects equipment, it does not improve the physical performance of the antenna itself. A poorly designed antenna will still radiate poorly, even if it is properly matched.

An Manual Antenna Coupler

A manual antenna coupler requires the user to adjust controls by hand to achieve proper impedance matching. The operator typically turns knobs that vary capacitors and inductors while watching an SWR meter or power meter. Manual couplers are simple, reliable, and often less expensive, but they require time and operator skill, especially when changing frequencies.

An Automatic Antenna Coupler

An automatic antenna coupler performs the matching process by itself. It uses electronic switching and a microcontroller to quickly select the correct combination of components when the frequency changes. Automatic couplers are fast and convenient, making them ideal for systems that change frequency often or need remote operation.

In summary, manual couplers offer control and simplicity, while automatic couplers provide speed and convenience. The best choice depends on whether the operator values hands-on adjustment or automatic tuning.

A Properly Tuned Antenna

Yes—it is generally best to have an antenna that is already tuned so you don’t need an antenna coupler.

A properly tuned antenna is designed to have the correct impedance and resonance at the operating frequency. This means low SWR, efficient power radiation, and minimal reflected power. When the antenna is tuned, the transmitter can deliver power directly to it without extra matching equipment.

An antenna coupler becomes useful when the antenna cannot be perfectly tuned, such as when one antenna is used over multiple frequencies, when space limits antenna length, or when operating on wide-band systems. In these cases, the coupler helps protect the transmitter and improve power transfer, but it does not make the antenna itself more efficient.

In summary, a tuned antenna is the best solution for performance and efficiency. A coupler is a practical workaround, not a replacement for a well-designed antenna.

Making your own Coupler

You can make your own antenna coupler, and many people do—especially for learning and basic radio use.

A homemade antenna coupler is usually built as a passive matching network using inductors (coils) and capacitors. These parts are arranged in common configurations such as L-networks, T-networks, or π-networks, which allow the antenna’s impedance to be transformed to match the transmitter.

Building your own coupler has several advantages. It helps you understand impedance matching, SWR, and how RF circuits work. Homemade couplers can also be inexpensive and customized for a specific frequency range or antenna.
However, there are also limitations. A DIY coupler usually requires manual adjustment, careful construction, and testing with an SWR meter. Poor layout or low-quality components can cause losses or limit the power it can safely handle.

Making your own antenna coupler is possible and educational, especially for simple or low-power systems. For convenience, wide-frequency coverage, or higher power, commercial automatic couplers are often the better choice.

What about you?

Have you got one? What bands do you use it for and why? Have you built your own or bought one? Do you prefer a manual over an automatic coupler?


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Antennas

Amateur radio operators use many different antenna types, each designed for specific bands, space limits, and operating goals. Here’s a clear overview of the most common ones and why hams choose them.

Wire Antennas

These are some of the simplest and most popular antennas that include:

Dipole Antennas

  • Two equal wire sections fed in the center
  • Very efficient and easy to build
  • Works well on HF bands
  • Often used as a first antenna

End-fed wire

  • Fed at one end instead of the center
  • Easy to install in limited space
  • Needs a matching unit (tuner or transformer)

Inverted-V

  • A dipole with the center high and the ends sloping down
  • Takes up less horizontal space
  • Good all-around performance

Vertical antennas

Vertical antennas stand upright and radiate equally in all directions.

  • Popular for HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Good for DX (long-distance) contacts
  • Require a good ground system or radials
  • Common on small lots or rooftops

Verticals are great when you want omnidirectional coverage without rotating an antenna.

Directional antennas

These antennas focus energy in specific directions. They include:

Yagi Antennas

  • One driven element with reflector(s) and director(s)
  • High gain and directivity
  • Common on HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Usually mounted on towers and rotors

Beam Antennas

  • General term for directional antennas
  • Help reduce noise and interference
  • Ideal for contesting and DXing

Loop antennas

Loop antennas use a closed loop of wire or tubing. They include:

Full-wave loops

  • Large, efficient, and low noise
  • Often used on HF bands

Magnetic loops

  • Much smaller
  • Useful in apartments or noisy environments
  • Narrow bandwidth, needs careful tuning

VHF/UHF antennas

Used mainly for local and line-of-sight communication. They include:

Ground-plane

  • Simple vertical antenna
  • Common for 2 m and 70 cm

Collinear

  • Stacked vertical elements
  • More gain for repeater and FM use

Handheld “rubber duck”

  • Compact and portable
  • Less efficient but very convenient

Portable and special-purpose antennas

  • Whip antennas for mobile use
  • NVIS antennas for regional HF coverage
  • Stealth antennas designed to be hidden
  • Satellite antennas (often crossed Yagis)

Choosing the right antenna

Amateur Radio Operators usually decide what antenna to used based on:

  • Available space
  • Frequency bands
  • Operating style (local, DX, portable)
  • Budget and installation limits

A simple, well-installed antenna often outperforms a complex one installed poorly.

How do I increase Antenna Gain?

Increasing antenna gain means focusing the radio signal more efficiently rather than increasing transmitter power. One of the most effective ways is to use a directional antenna, like a Yagi or beam, instead of an omnidirectional antenna such as a dipole or vertical. Directional antennas concentrate energy in a specific direction, providing stronger signals and reducing interference from unwanted directions.

You can also look at mounting your antenna higher. The old thought of Height is Might come into play. It’s true to a point, especially if you go higher and can now talk over obstacles like hills or buildings.

Another way to increase gain is by adding more elements to antennas like Yagis. Each additional director slightly increases forward gain, allowing for stronger transmission over long distances. Similarly, antenna height plays a major role in effective gain: raising antennas above obstacles improves the radiation angle, enhances long-distance (DX) contacts, and benefits line-of-sight communication on VHF and UHF bands.

Advanced techniques include stacking antennas, where two or more identical antennas are combined with proper spacing and phasing to achieve extra gain. Even without changing antennas, improving efficiency can boost effective gain. This includes using low-loss coax, keeping feedlines short, installing sufficient radials for verticals, and tuning the antenna to achieve a low SWR, which ensures most energy is radiated rather than lost.

In short, achieving higher gain relies on focusing energy, increasing elements, raising antenna height, and reducing losses. Choosing the right antenna depends on your operating goals, such as DX contacts or local coverage, and your available space and budget.

What about you?

So what antenna have you used and has it worked well or not at all? Which antenna did I miss above?

I’m keen to get your thoughts so please add a comment below.


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Dipole Antenna for Portable Use – Make your own!

A dipole antenna is a basic radio antenna made of two conductive elements fed at the center. It is typically a half-wavelength long and is widely used as a reference antenna in antenna theory and practice.

Dipole antennas work by converting alternating current into electromagnetic waves. Their radiation pattern is strongest perpendicular to the antenna and weakest along its axis, forming a donut-shaped pattern in three dimensions.

The orientation of a dipole antenna determines its polarization. A horizontal dipole produces horizontally polarized waves, while a vertical dipole produces vertically polarized waves. Matching polarization improves signal strength.

A half-wave dipole has an impedance of about 73 ohms in free space, which closely matches common coaxial cables. Proper impedance matching improves efficiency and reduces signal reflections.

When a dipole is installed close to the ground, near objects, or in an inverted-V shape, its impedance naturally drops from ~73 ohms toward 50 ohms. Many real-world dipoles end up near 50 ohms without extra components.

A folded dipole has about 300 ohms impedance, but using a 4:1 balun converts it to 75 ohms, and further matching can bring it to 50 ohms if needed.

Common types include half-wave, folded, short, and inverted-V dipoles. Dipole antennas are used in FM radio, television, amateur radio, and as components of directional antenna arrays.

My Antenna

Below is the antenna I made and tested. This video will show you how I did it, and why. I share some tips I learned along the way. But I would also value your thoughts.

The app I used to get the measurements from is this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.daveyhollenberg.amateurradiotoolkit

However you can get lots of different apps that will do this. Or you can use the simple formula to work it out in metric or imperial.

My portable setup

Below are some videos on my portable setup which you may enjoy.


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Interference

Interference in Amateur Radio refers to unwanted signals that disrupt radio communication. This interference can reduce signal clarity, make contacts difficult, or completely block communication between amateur radio operators.

Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) is one of the most common problems in amateur radio. It often comes from man-made electronic devices such as phone chargers, computers, LED lights, televisions, and power supplies. These devices can produce continuous noise or buzzing sounds across radio bands.

Natural Interference also affects amateur radio operations. Lightning causes static noise, while solar activity can disrupt or enhance signals, especially on HF bands. Atmospheric conditions play a major role in how radio waves travel and how much noise is present.

Adjacent Channel Interference and Harmonics occur when signals spill over into nearby frequencies or when transmitters emit unwanted signals outside their assigned band. This is usually caused by poor filtering, excessive power, or improperly adjusted equipment.

Managing and Reducing Interference is an important responsibility for amateur radio operators. Techniques include proper grounding, using quality cables, installing filters, adding ferrite chokes, and ensuring transmitters produce clean signals.

Rules and Responsibilities in Amateur Radio require operators to avoid causing harmful interference, accept interference from other legal users, and correct any problems their station may cause. Cooperation among amateur radio operators helps identify and resolve interference issues effectively.

Options

Amateur radio interference can be reduced by controlling unwanted radio-frequency (RF) energy and improving how equipment handles it. One of the most effective methods is using ferrite chokes on coaxial cables, power leads, and the cables of affected devices. These chokes block RF from traveling along cables and significantly reduce interference.

Good grounding and bonding are also essential. The radio, power supply, and antenna system should be properly grounded, with metal parts bonded together using short, thick wires. A single, well-designed ground point helps prevent RF from spreading into household wiring and electronics.

The antenna system plays a major role in interference. A properly tuned antenna with low SWR reduces stray RF, and placing the antenna farther from buildings and electronics helps limit interference. Using baluns or common-mode chokes at the antenna feed point can further prevent RF from flowing back along the coax.

Interference can also be reduced by lowering transmit power to only what is necessary and by using filters such as low-pass or band-pass filters. Replacing or relocating noisy household electronics—like cheap power adapters or LED lights—can improve reception. Finally, using shielded cables, keeping wiring short, and changing frequency or band when needed can help minimize interference even further.

What about you?

I would love to hear what you have experienced and done about radio interference. Did you cause it? Did you experience it? What helped?


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