HamClock

HamClock has always fascinated me, as it seems such an amazing program specifically set up for Amateur Radio. I have seen countless videos on it but the draw back was always needing to have a Raspberry Pi. While I am not afraid to get one, and learn how to use it, I just didn’t feel like taking the plunge into that world just yet. Though I think that world is about to come, and I will end up regretting not doing it sooner!

So, what is HamClock?

Glad you asked. According to their website (https://www.clearskyinstitute.com/ham/HamClock/) HamClock is a kiosk-style application that provides real time space weather, radio propagation models, operating events and other information particularly useful to the radio amateur.

It is designed to provide ham radio enthusiasts with real-time information about the sun’s position, ionospheric conditions, and DX cluster spots. HamClock is an open source application which is a tool for the shack providing live up to date information all on one screen. It was originally written by Elwood Downey WB0OEW.

HamClock displays a map showing the sun’s position, illumination (daylight/darkness), and the “grey line” (the transition between day and night). This information is crucial for understanding propagation conditions, as the grey line is often a prime time for DX (long-distance) communication.

Usually it needs to be installed on Quadra or lynix, but I have recently found out you can install it on Windows.

Installing HamClock on Windows

Guess what, this is possible, and may feel overwhelming at first, but after following the video below, I was able to do it in real time along with this video. I was shocked how easy it was and super surprised I had not done this earlier.

The instructions (a text file) are available via this link, and are referred to in the video. https://www.clearskyinstitute.com/ham/HamClock/hamclock-contrib/HamClock%20Windows10.txt So, have the instructions open while you watch the video. Please note, this is not my video and you should do this at your own risk – however it worked for me easily!

Before doing the video, I suggest you read all the points below it as there were a couple of things I changed.

The video starts with music, but just do what it says. Then the author will talk you through the steps after the initial install.

The bit I got stuck on was setting up Cluster in HamClock. This is about 12:50 into the video, perhaps it was because I had an updated version of HamClock since the above video was done. So, instead, I put in the following settings:

Setting Up HamClock

There are countless ways to set up HamClock. As a starting point, I stuck with the video above as he shows you how to from 13:30. Below is a link to that point in the above video.

This video below is from a friend who also shows you in great detail how to set up your HamClock to get the most of it. Some things are slightly different, but after seeing this, you can have an informed choice.

I found this video below very good also, as it goes into detail regarding the map in HamClock. As you will see it is done by the same person. He talks about the maps and how to customise it easily.

After a Windows Reboot

When you next do a windows reboot, you will need to restart HamClock. To do this, open a CMD window by typing CMD in the windows search menu.

Then type in :

wsl sudo hamclock &

and put in your password you made for lynx and you should be able to open it again. Make sure you do n ot close the comand screen until you are finished.

Summary

Below is what my HamClock looks like. I like the background “terrain” map as well as the night and day showing on the map. I would value your thoughts though, as I know I am about the last one to finally get onto HamClock.

With all of these tools, we should remember propagation shown is using data, but the rest of it is predictions based on knowledge.

If these propagation tools show there isn’t anything happening, always give it a try anyway. You never know without trying. You may be higher than other stations, or put out more power. You might just get an opening before other stations.

All the propagation websites are a summary of conditions recorded and sent in. HamClock is a good tool, it looks good, and gives you a lot of information on the one screen. You can adjust it easily also.

Please tell me your thoughts, and what you think. Do you use it? Perhaps you use it differently and have some advice for me and other readers. Hope you enjoyed the read.


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NanoVNA H4 USB Control to PC

If you haven’t seen my previous blog on the NanoVNA Analyser, then I suggest you look at that first before reading this blog. This one will talk about how to connect your NanoVNA to your PC via the USB cable, so I am assuming you know the basics on how to operate it.

There is a google drive (link here) that has a lot of things on it, including manuals and software. There is lot of other things that I haven’t looked at yet also available in several languages.

If you go into the Software and Drivers folder via the link above, you will see the file NanoVNASharp.zip. Download this file onto your PC, then unzip it into a folder.

Once unzipped, you can run the NanoVNA.exe file after connecting your NanoVNA device with the USB cable. You may need to install the driver. I used the nanovna-cdc.acm.zip file you can see on the above google drive.

You may have to go to your windows device manager to check which COM Port the NanoVNA has been allocated. Below is what the program looks like (without the graph showing).

You can see above where to select the com port and connect. You can adjust the start and stop frequencies as mentioned in the last post. You can either press the Get Data button or tick the Auto Refresh box. Then you can save and open the file. I did screen shots before I adjusted my antenna, so you can open the current and old side by side and compare what your adjustments did.

Down the bottom of the chart is where you can change the chart format from Logmag to Smith Chart or SWA etc. You can also change the scale as needed.

Below is an output from my dipole antenna. You can see the SWA is very high at 3.5Mhz still but a lot better on other bands.

The other bands may not be perfect, I can now zoom in to each band one at a time and see how the antenna works across the selected band more accurately.

I would value your thoughts on this and if you found it interesting. Please send me an email or post a comment below.

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Flrig

Flrig is a transceiver control program designed to be used either stand alone or as an adjunct to fldigi (see my review on this). The supported transceivers all have some degree of CAT. The flrig user interface changes to accommodate the degree of CAT support available for the transceiver in use.

Download Flrig here, but not via the green button, select the setup.exe file below (if for windows).

Once installed, all I did was press the Config menu and select Setup and Transceiver. From this window, I selected my radio on the receiver page, then the relevant com port, baud rate as per the radio and selected Init. and it just worked.

While in that area, you may want to return to the Config menu and then select UI and then turn tool tips on. This will help you around the program.

The picture to the right shows a few screens of Flrig working with my radio. You can see live SWR, power used and a few others. Down the bottom is how I can quickly switch bands. If you have band stacking on this works in well also. The second bottom screen is the VFO A or B (B is on in this example)

I can tune in a frequency via Flrig, or Flrig will update should I change settings on the radio.

Another benefit of this simple software is you can point other software to it. This may include logging software and digital decoding software.

A great little free program with a lot of benefits.

Links

  • Download Flrig here, but not via the green button, but the setup.exe file below (if for windows)

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VARA – VARAC

Ever heard this sound on HF / VHF / UHF? I know I have more and more recently.

Listen to the strange data sounds you can hear

After a bit of research, someone told me it was VARAC. https://www.varac-hamradio.com/ As I understand it, the project started with Irad Deutsch 4Z1AC. It is free of charge for amateur radio operators.

This software provides text base communications over HF / VHF / UHF bands (and a few more also!). It is a bit different to FT8 FT4 JT8 etc as this not only gives you a signal report, but you can do a lot of cool things and really make some good friends in the process. I know I have in just the first 2 days. You can type in real time via your radio, and even see when the other person is typing. You can send files, and emails also and send out a beacon every 15 minutes to let people know you are there or see who can hear you on PSK. The software will also let people know when you hear them automatically.

You need the software VARA HF to decode it. VARA HF is essentially a software modem. Whereas VARAC is the chat-based software.

Downloading

Simply go to the address https://www.varac-hamradio.com/download and download the appropriate version. You can download HF or FM depending on what mode you will be using. Down the bottom of this page you can put in your email address and they will send you instructions.

Setting Up VARA HF

VARA FM is also available to be used with UHF and VHF. There is also VARA SAT for geostationary Sat.

VARA HF (as well as VARA FM and VARA SAT) is essentially a software modem that connects your radio to the VARA AC software. VARA HF is for HF only and this is the one I am using and talking about here. Though I understand the others are the same concept, just different radios.

Once installed, select settings, then sound card and update to the settings you use. If you are not sure what device to add, then have a look at windows device manager. Then put in your call sign and registration Key. If you don’t have one, you can just use your call sign for a period. This part of the software you will have to buy at some point, but you get a while to try it before you have to and it really isn’t expensive. There are updates all the time by the look of what is posted on Facebook.

Setting Up VARAC

Go to settings then Rig Control and VARA configurations. Here we need to set the PTT configuration up the top left of this screen. This will be how the software connects to your radio. You also need to setup the frequency control section. Once setup, press the save and exit button.

Using VARAC

Each band has a calling frequency, which you can select up the top left of the default screen via the drop-down box. On the calling frequency, you can receive calls which will be shown on the top blue box. While on the calling frequency, other users can get an automatic signal report from you, or even ping you to see if you are there.

The above picture is the main screen in advanced mode (you can see I have it ticked up the top right). The lower blue box shows that I have sent a beacon, and about to send another one. Prior to that I had a 15min conversation with VK3FFB.

The box up the top right shows anyone currently calling CQ (currently none in the above example, but the band was a bit dead), and the box next to that is the two beacons I can pick up with their signal strength. You can see on the top left I am on the calling frequency of 28.105 Mhz.

If you click on someone calling CQ, VARAC will attempt to connect with that station via the same slot that they are on. The slots are just a different frequency to the main calling frequency.

When calling CQ yourself, you press the purple CALL CQ button then check which slots are available. Select a slot then press the sniffer button and listen to your radio to check no one is there. Remember to turn the volume up for this! If there is traffic on that selected slot, select another slot and sniff that one. Once you have found one, you can press CALL CQ on that box.

VARA AC will now call CQ on the calling frequency then receive on the chosen slot. Should someone join you, you will see it on the bottom blue screen. You can type whatever you want in the bottom new message box and press send, and you can do it for as long as you want, it is not like FT8 with just a signal report. You can also see when the other person is typing a message (if enabled).

You can also send files to each other should you want to. I like to send a QSL card. On the right you can see Send VMail, or you can set yourself to away.

Just above the new message box to the far right, are some canned messages. You can edit these via the settings menu. These will send pre-populated information about yourself to the other person, like your name, QTH, Location and your power. This information will then auto populate on their screen in the boxes just above the New Message box. If they send you one back, it will auto populate on yours so you can either auto log or press log to log the contact with all the information received. This logged information can then be used for a variety of logging programs.

If you are logging on QRZ, you will find VARAC under Dynamic mode.

PSK

One extra feature is you can go to https://pskreporter.info/pskmap.html and put in your call sign and then select VARA. Every 15 minutes VARAC will send out a ping and on PSK you can see who heard you around the world on the map. This 15-minute time can be adjusted in the settings window down the bottom right.

VarAC Do’s and Don’ts

Here is a copy of the code of conduct that should get emailed to you if you put in your email address. Make sure you have a good read as you don’t want to be the one everyone talks about for the wrong reason!

The Don’t: Don’t jam the Calling Frequency (CF). Don’t hold it for more then a few minutes or more then necessary.

The Do: Started a QSO on the CF? It’s OK, but QSY as soon as possible. You have QSY UP/Down buttons or a free-form QSY button where you can select your desired QSY frequency.

The Don’t: Don’t use the PING feature for DXCC/Grid hunting. Pings are not registered as QSOs as only one side sends an SNR report.

The Do: Use PING only as tool to check the link quality with your desired destination.

The Don’t: Don’t use 2300Hz BW on the VarAC CF or on any of the slots.

The Do: Use Only 500Hz on VarAC CF and slots to avoid QRM-ing nearby VarAC QSOs. Use 2300Hz only outside of the slot frequencies.

The Don’t: Don’t QSY to a frequency without checking if it is free.

The Do: VarAC provides you with Sniffers. Right-click on the QSY Up/Down buttons will temporarily QSY to the destination frequency (without keying your PTT) so you can listen before QSY-ing. Same goes for calling CQs: Use the CQ slot sniffer.

The Don’t: Don’t try to send large files over HF. And if the link is slow – don’t send files at all. It will never end. And PLEASE don’t send files over the CF.

The Do:  Send files up to 5-10K in high speed and no more than 1-2K in low speed and always on non CF frequencies.

Other information

There is a lot more to learn about VARC, but hopefully this helps as a starting point. Please let me know in the comments if it helped you. I do hope to do a video on it soon.

Special thanks to Irad Deutsch 4Z1AC who helped me in answering questions for this review.

Below are some other interesting reads you may enjoy also.

EchoLink CQ

I’ve been using EchoLink well before smartphones where the only way I knew how to connect to a different station was via the radio. The internet wasn’t as extensive as it is now and you had to dial the node you wanted via the radio. You can still do this today but I don’t think anywhere near as many do it.

I always felt EchoLink was well ahead of its time. Started well before any digital radio was thought of. Connecting the world via the internet.

It was great to be able to talk to the UK or States while mobile on the way to work just using a small whip antenna on the car.

Given I’m in Australia, it can be difficult to remember when overseas nets are on, or what part of the world is awake and up for a chat and which ones are not. But EchoLink has a CQ feature.

Calling CQ

EchoLink had a CQ feature where you can call CQ and it will automatically connect to someone who is calling CQ also.

From the Stations screen select call CQ.

  • Then select your language.
  • Select the country, if you leave it as any, you will not limit your connection options
  • Select the node type, again, leave as any to start with
  • And you can skip recent if you want to.

Then press Call CQ

It will call CQ for a while searching for a connection that matches your settings. I find that sometimes it tries to connect to another node but can fail. This is perhaps because the connection drops out for whatever reason. Just try again.

The good thing about this option is you will get someone who is wanting to talk to someone just like you do!

What is your experience with EchoLink? What is your favourite nodes? Why don’t you put it in the comments below so we can all learn from your experiences.

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NetTime

When using digital over the radio, it is particularly important you have the correct time. Even a second out will stop you from making contacts. I relied on Windows to update the time and got an email from a helpful amateur telling me my time was out. You can see below it wasn’t out by much but was enough to stop me in my tracks!

So, I installed NetTime at https://timesynctool.com/ but there are a few things you should do.

This free program will update your time on your PC to be exactly the right time. After you install it, go to the settings, and change the update interval to 15 minutes rather than the default 12 hours.

It is a simple little program, not much to it, but sure helps you keep the correct time down to the second.

After you have done this, you should be right to go!

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GD-77 Won’t connect to PC

I have been using my Radioddity now for some years and love it.  Though upgrading this to the OpenGD77 opened a whole new world and it gets better all the time.

One issue I had for a period was not being able to connect to it via my PC. For some time, it worked, then it stopped. It was most frustrating as I could not run the radio as a local repeater anymore. I almost never update the codeplug now and update the firmware every few weeks, but I could not do any of this without my PC connection.

After checking I had the latest community programming software, I was stumped.

Roger, who is behind all the programming of this radio and who lives nearby, kindly gave me some advice over email.  He suggested it was a Com-Port issue.  And he was correct.  So, I have put this together to help others who may have the same problem as I did.

From windows 10, type in the search box Device Manager.  Then you will get a box like the following.

If you expand out the Ports section, you can see the issue I had straight away, I had the OpenGD77 on com port 4, and an Eltima Virtual Serial Port on com port 2-4 also.

I disabled the Eltima com ports listed by right clicking on them and nothing seemed to stop working, so then I uninstalled them both.  And straight away the com port worked through to the radio like it used to.

Great to have my GD77 back in action!  Hopefully this has helped you, if it has, please let me know.

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  • Upgrade to OpenGD77
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DudeStar

Here is a free windows program that will connect your PC to:

  • DMR
  • Yaesu Fusion
  • DStar
  • M17
  • P25
  • NXDN

You can do all this without needing to purchase a radio. I prefer to use a radio, however I thought I would put this review together to help others who may not or want to try before they buy. Obviously you need to be licenced first.

The software was started by Doug, AD8DP (he’s contact details are on QRZ), and seems to work well. While the audio is better via a radio, this is an option you can use if even to only listen.

First step is to go to the Dudestar GitHub page at the following address: https://github.com/nostar/dudestar. You can see down the bottom of this page how to install for Lynx. Or try this site (it keeps changing): http://radio.xreflector.es/index.php/575-2/?fbclid=IwAR2GPPD3OXkjLWXj-r9e1QZtN2bzM6kIPoXodyEJ2URKlGRzJ0Q1-vC6VSg

The next step is to run the executable file from the download releases link page here. https://github.com/nostar/dudestar/releases Just click on the Assets arrow, and press on the appropriate exe file. It is only about 20mb big, so wont take long to download.

Once downloaded, run the file. If you get a windows protection message, click on more info then run anyway. Alternatively right click on the file, go to properties and unblock. Everything runs from the downloaded file – nothing is installed.

Some of the settings to set

Settings Tab – vcoder should be set to software vecoder. You can set your playback and capture device if you don’t want it to be the default. Put in your call sign. Down the bottom of this tab is where you can update ID Files and Update host files – it doesn’t look like it did anything, but if you look on the log tab, you will see it does.

Main Tab – You can adjust the volume and mic gain on this page. It has been recommended to set the mic gain to 10% – 30% to start with. This will change depending on the microphone you use and even the mode you are on.

You can see the available modes via the list above

Getting connected

Lets get connected on Fusion as that is the easiest to start with. From the Main tab, in the mode area, select YSF. Then you can select a host or talk group you want to talk to.

Then press connect to connect. To transmit, press the TX button or space bar.

As someone keys up, you should see their call sign populated in the main tab.

Changing Modes

First disconnect via the main tab. If you want to try DMR, you will need to put in your DMR ID and password. Then via the main tab, select DMR, and select a master server. If you select a BM one then you will be on the BrandMeister network. Then type in the talk group and tick SWRX (software RX), and SWTX (software TX).

I think the software is a great start and with everything will be worked on and updated. I notice if you listen via your PC and radio at the same time, it will come through the PC first as the radio and hotspot is perhaps slower in decoding.

If you have any comments, please put them below. This page is only valid for the current version, and I am sure there will be changes.

Hints

One thing you can do it run the program more than once and monitor two different networks or talk groups. A great feature but unless you are looking at the screen, it can be hard to know which one spoke. So I either make the volumes different, or patch the sound through to the speakers in my monitors (as I have more than one).

There is a good discussion group here if you want to join the discussion. It is also about DudeStar which was written by the same person.

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Welle.io

Welle.io is a DAB and DAB+ software defined radio (SDR). It runs on Windows, Linux and embedded devices like the Raspberry Pi 2 and 3.

You can find the program and where to download it from their website.

Using the Software

With all these things, the software is updated regularly. You can see on the page where you download it from, what changes have been made with each version. The first thing I struggled to find was how to tune in the stations. I will show you how to further on in this post.

This is how the program looked while writing this review

Settings

If you select the three dots up the far top right, you can select settings. I recommend keeping them as is unless you want to change something here. The Auto Detect should select your SDR that is connected.

If your keen, you can also check out the Expert Settings from the same area.

Tuning in Stations

Towards the top left of the interface is a All Stations button. To the right of this is three little buttons. Click on this and select Start Station Scan. This will give you a list of stations once it is finished. You can star the ones you like to create a favorited list.

Changing Display

You can add displays by pressing the orange plus button down the bottom right. Some of the displays change as you hover over them, others have waterfalls. They can be removed or added as needed. I assume these will change all the time as the program is developed.

Recording

The app allows you to record the station you are listening to. By default, recordings are MP2 files stored in the /tmp folder.

Hotkeys

There are several hotkeys that can be turned on or off. They included m = mute audio, r = start or stop recording, – = switch to previous service, + = switch to the next service and so on.

Slideshow

Some stations transmit a slideshow. I have usually found this is just the station’s logo or the current program’s logo. The program is able to display this after it receives it without errors.

Summary

In summary, I highly recommend this easy to use software with your SDR device. It is extremely easy to set up and get going. At the time of writing this, there are only a couple of YouTube video’s and hardly any reviews. The YouTube video’s appear to be from the developer and just show you how to set it up. I believe this simple program will become popular in time mainly because of how easy it is to setup.

I hope you enjoy the read, please let me know below what you thought or have any comments.

Other Reads

Enjoyed the read, here are some other things you may enjoy.

Treehouse

An unusual name, but a catchy name no less, just like Peanut that was written by the same person, David PA7LIM. If you like Peanut, then you will like this project also. This project, like Peanut, includes some amazing coding and thinking.

Launched in 2020, the main website for Treehouse is found off David’s web site. This project is a YSF reflector with multiple rooms.

Dashboard

You can see the dashboard via this link http://europelink.pa7lim.nl/ it is a remarkably similar layout to the Peanut one.

If you open the above dashboard, you will see down the left side in the Room Control section, a message stating your hotspot is not logged in to this reflector.

There are several ways you can connect, but here are a few in no particular order.

BlueDV

A friend of mine, Chris, put this video together. He uses BlueDV to get onto it.

YSF – via your hotspot

As I use an Openspot2, my instructions will show you how I do it, however I am sure you can apply similar to your hotspot should you have a different one.

First you need to connect to the YSF reflector called EUROPELINK, and according to the YSD reflector register, this has an ID number of 00007. If you don’t know how I found this, go to the YSF Reflector Registry page and type in EUROPELINK in the search box, and you can see the ID number of 0007.

Back to the Openspot2, I select Quick Setup, then I select DMR, as I am using a DMR radio, then select YSFReflector then in the Server box, I type in 00007 or EUROPELINK, to select that reflector. Doing this will connect my DMR radio to the YSF system.

Almost instantly, the Room Control section of the dashboard has updated to my call sign and I now have a drop-down list where I can select which room I want to connect to. You can then select the room you want.

As you transmit, you will see your call in the Active QSO’s screen.

While this is not connected to the Peanut Dashboard, there will be rooms that go across to each other. The Online Stations section of the Dashboard has the time stations connected.

There is a new AU-NZ room which is good and was quickly made after it was requested to David. Some rooms link just to themselves, like the English room and so on, while others connect beyond the internet. Remember this reflector will get busier as time goes on.

Also, this setup is still very new, and like Peanut, it took a little while to become popular.  Having said that, Peanut took off quickly and given the success of that, and a lot of people at home during the 2020 Pandemic, I believe this will take off quickly also.

Hope you enjoyed this post. Please remember to follow this blog by putting in your email address so you get posts as soon as they are posted.

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