15 Metre band

The 15 metre band is one of the most popular HF amateur radio bands for long-distance communication, offering an excellent balance between reliability and worldwide reach.

Frequency Range

The standard frequency range for the 15m band is 21.000 MHz to 21.450 MHz. Within this range, different segments are commonly used for specific modes: CW (Morse code) is typically found at the lower end (around 21.000–21.070 MHz), digital modes like FT8 cluster around 21.074 MHz, and SSB voice communications are usually active above 21.200 MHz. These frequency allocations make it easy for operators to find activity depending on their preferred operating mode.

Free poster for your shack

Set Frequencies

On the lower end of the band, CW (Morse code) activity is concentrated between 21.000 and 21.070 MHz. Within this section, you’ll often hear DX stations calling near 21.020–21.040 MHz, while slower-speed or casual CW contacts may be slightly higher. Contest activity can spread across most of this CW segment during major events.

For digital modes, there are a few very well-known frequencies. The most popular is 21.074 MHz, which is the standard calling frequency for FT8, one of the most widely used weak-signal digital modes. Just above that, around 21.090–21.100 MHz, you’ll find modes like FT4, PSK31, and other digital activity depending on band conditions and operator preference.

In the upper portion of the band, SSB voice communications dominate. A widely recognised DX calling frequency is 21.300 MHz, where stations often call CQ looking for international contacts. General SSB ragchewing and contesting typically take place between 21.200 and 21.450 MHz, with activity spreading out depending on how busy the band is.

There are also a few special-purpose or informal gathering spots. For example, 21.360 MHz is sometimes used by international nets, and various maritime or traveller nets may appear in the upper SSB segment. During contests, however, these informal frequencies can become very busy or shift as operators spread across the band.

Overall, these set frequencies on 15 metres act like meeting points:

  • 21.020–21.040 MHz → CW DX activity
  • 21.074 MHz → FT8 digital frequency
  • 21.090+ MHz → other digital modes
  • 21.300 MHz → SSB DX calling frequency
  • 21.200–21.450 MHz → general SSB voice

Knowing these frequencies helps you quickly find activity and understand what to expect when tuning across the 15m band.

Ionosphere

The 15 metre band works primarily through ionospheric propagation, specifically via the F layer of the ionosphere. Signals transmitted on 21 MHz travel upward and are refracted back to Earth, allowing DX (long-distance communication) over thousands of kilometres. This band is highly dependent on solar activity, especially the sunspot cycle. During periods of high solar activity, the maximum usable frequency (MUF) increases, allowing 15m signals to propagate globally with strong signals. During low solar activity, the band can appear quiet or “closed,” especially for long-distance paths.

What can you expect

Operators can expect fast-changing propagation conditions on 15 metres. When the band is open, signals are often strong, with low noise compared to lower HF bands like 40m or 80m. This makes it ideal for DX contacts, contesting, and digital modes. However, when the band is closed, there may be little to no activity except for occasional short skip (regional contacts) or sporadic openings. Unlike lower bands, 15m does not usually support reliable nighttime propagation, as the ionosphere loses its ability to refract higher frequencies after sunset.

Antennas

Common 15 metre antennas include dipole antennas, vertical antennas, and directional beam antennas (Yagi). A simple half-wave dipole for 15m is about 7 metres long (total length), making it relatively compact and easy to install. Vertical antennas are popular for low-angle radiation, which is ideal for long-distance DX. More advanced operators often use Yagi beams mounted on towers, which provide gain and directionality, significantly improving performance on this band.

Performance

The interaction with ionospheric layers is key to understanding 15m performance. The F1 and F2 layers are responsible for most long-distance propagation, particularly during the daytime. The D layer, which forms during daylight hours, can absorb lower-frequency signals but has less effect on 15m, helping keep noise levels lower. Occasionally, sporadic E propagation can also open the band, especially in summer, allowing unexpected medium-distance contacts even when the F layer is weak.

Band opens

The 15 metre band is generally open during daylight hours, especially from mid-morning to late afternoon. Peak performance often occurs around local noon, when the ionosphere is most ionised. Openings are more frequent during solar maximum years, and less reliable during solar minimum. The band typically closes after sunset, although limited openings can sometimes occur around greyline (sunrise and sunset), offering unique DX opportunities.

Summary

Overall, the 15 metre amateur radio band is valued for its strong DX capability, low noise levels, and relatively small antenna size requirements. It is an excellent band for both beginners and experienced operators who want to explore worldwide HF communication, especially during favourable solar conditions.


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Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) in HF Radio Propagation

Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) is an important concept in HF radio propagation and amateur radio communications. It refers to the highest frequency that can be used for reliable communication between two locations by reflecting off the ionosphere. If a radio signal is transmitted above the MUF, it will not return to Earth and will instead pass through the ionosphere into space, making long-distance communication impossible on that frequency.

In high frequency (HF) bands between 3 MHz and 30 MHz, radio signals rely on the ionosphere to travel beyond the horizon. The ionosphere contains charged particles that can refract radio waves back toward the Earth, enabling long-distance or DX communication. Lower HF frequencies tend to bend more easily, while higher frequencies require stronger ionisation to reflect. The MUF represents the cutoff point where signals stop being reflected and begin escaping into space.

The MUF changes constantly due to several environmental factors. Solar activity, including sunspots and solar radiation, has a major influence, with higher solar activity increasing ionisation and raising the MUF. The time of day also plays a role, with daytime conditions generally producing a higher MUF due to stronger ionisation, while nighttime conditions lower the MUF as the ionosphere weakens. Additionally, the distance between stations (radio path length) affects the MUF, with longer paths often requiring higher frequencies to achieve successful propagation.

Another important concept related to MUF is the Lowest Usable Frequency (LUF). While MUF defines the upper limit, LUF defines the lowest frequency that can be used effectively without excessive signal loss or noise. The usable frequency range for communication lies between these two limits, often referred to as the optimum working frequency range. Operators typically choose a frequency slightly below the MUF for the most reliable performance.

Understanding Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) is essential for amateur radio operators, particularly those interested in HF DXing, contesting, and propagation prediction. By knowing the current MUF, operators can select the most effective bands, such as 20 metres, 17 metres, or 15 metres, and better understand why certain bands open or close throughout the day.

In summary, MUF is the highest frequency that will be reflected by the ionosphere for a given path and time, making it a critical factor in successful long-distance HF radio communication.

This one is for your Shack including all bands

How do you check MUF in real time?

Checking the Maximum Usable Frequency (MUF) in real time is something many amateur radio operators do to decide which HF bands are open for DX communication. There are several easy ways to monitor live MUF and ionospheric conditions using online tools and software.

Online MUF Maps and Propagation Tools

One of the most popular methods is using real-time propagation websites. These display global or regional MUF based on ionospheric data (foF2 measurements).

Common tools:

  • Space Weather / Propagation sites (e.g. NOAA, SpaceWeatherLive)
  • VOACAP Online (predicts HF propagation paths)
  • DXMaps / PSKReporter (shows real contacts happening live)

Ionosonde Data (foF2)

A more technical way to check MUF is by looking at ionosonde readings, specifically the foF2 value.

  • foF2 = critical frequency of the F2 layer
  • MUF is roughly calculated from this value depending on path angle

Using SDR to Observe Band Openings

With your RTL-SDR + SDR# setup, you can actually see MUF effects:

  • Tune across HF bands
  • Watch the waterfall display
  • Look for signals appearing/disappearing

Beacon and Reverse Beacon Networks

Another real-time method is using beacon networks:

  • NCDXF/IARU beacons transmit on multiple HF bands
  • Reverse Beacon Network (RBN) shows who is hearing what
Feel free to print this out for your shack

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Lightning Storm & HF Radio

HF radio and lightning storms are closely connected because lightning creates strong radio frequency interference that affects HF radio communication (3–30 MHz). High Frequency radio is commonly used for amateur radio (ham radio), marine radio, aviation HF communication, emergency communications, and long-distance shortwave listening. HF signals travel long distances by reflecting off the ionosphere, which makes them ideal for worldwide communication without repeaters — but also makes them very sensitive to atmospheric noise.

During a lightning storm, each lightning strike produces a powerful burst of electromagnetic interference (EMI) across a wide range of frequencies. This is known as atmospheric radio noise or QRN (natural static noise). On an HF receiver, lightning interference sounds like loud static crashes, popping, and crackling across the band. The noise can raise the HF noise floor significantly, making weak signals difficult or impossible to copy.

Lightning interference does not need to be local to affect your station. Distant thunderstorms hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away can generate broadband RF noise that travels via ground wave and skywave propagation. Because HF signals reflect off the ionosphere, lightning noise can also propagate long distances. This is why operators often experience heavy static on the 40 metre band or 20 metre band even when the weather is clear overhead.

HF radio is more affected by lightning than VHF or UHF radio because lower frequencies are more susceptible to atmospheric static. Storm activity in tropical regions, including northern Australia during the wet season, can noticeably increase static levels across the HF bands in southern states such as Victoria.

Using HF radio during a thunderstorm can also pose a safety risk. Lightning strikes can induce high voltage into antenna systems, travel down coaxial feedlines, damage transceivers, destroy power supplies, and in severe cases cause fire. Even a nearby lightning strike can create a voltage surge through electromagnetic induction.

To protect HF radio equipment from lightning damage, operators commonly install lightning arrestors, use proper station grounding systems, fit surge protection devices, and disconnect antenna feedlines during storms. Many amateur radio operators physically unplug their coax cable when thunderstorms approach as an added precaution.

Lightning detection systems and weather monitoring networks also use radio frequency monitoring to track storm activity. The radio noise generated by lightning can be detected over long distances, making RF monitoring an effective method for identifying thunderstorm activity.


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What is an Antenna Coupler

An antenna coupler (also called an antenna tuner or matching network) is a device used in radio systems to ensure impedance matching between a transmitter and an antenna. Most transmitters are designed for a specific impedance, commonly 50 ohms, while antennas often vary depending on frequency and design.

When the impedance is not matched, reflected power occurs, creating a high Standing Wave Ratio (SWR). This means part of the transmitted signal travels back toward the transmitter instead of being radiated. High SWR can reduce performance and potentially damage the transmitter.

The antenna coupler solves this problem by using capacitors and inductors to adjust the electrical characteristics of the antenna system. These components transform the antenna’s impedance so it appears correct to the transmitter, which reduces SWR and allows power to flow efficiently.

While an antenna coupler improves power transfer efficiency and protects equipment, it does not improve the physical performance of the antenna itself. A poorly designed antenna will still radiate poorly, even if it is properly matched.

An Manual Antenna Coupler

A manual antenna coupler requires the user to adjust controls by hand to achieve proper impedance matching. The operator typically turns knobs that vary capacitors and inductors while watching an SWR meter or power meter. Manual couplers are simple, reliable, and often less expensive, but they require time and operator skill, especially when changing frequencies.

An Automatic Antenna Coupler

An automatic antenna coupler performs the matching process by itself. It uses electronic switching and a microcontroller to quickly select the correct combination of components when the frequency changes. Automatic couplers are fast and convenient, making them ideal for systems that change frequency often or need remote operation.

In summary, manual couplers offer control and simplicity, while automatic couplers provide speed and convenience. The best choice depends on whether the operator values hands-on adjustment or automatic tuning.

A Properly Tuned Antenna

Yes—it is generally best to have an antenna that is already tuned so you don’t need an antenna coupler.

A properly tuned antenna is designed to have the correct impedance and resonance at the operating frequency. This means low SWR, efficient power radiation, and minimal reflected power. When the antenna is tuned, the transmitter can deliver power directly to it without extra matching equipment.

An antenna coupler becomes useful when the antenna cannot be perfectly tuned, such as when one antenna is used over multiple frequencies, when space limits antenna length, or when operating on wide-band systems. In these cases, the coupler helps protect the transmitter and improve power transfer, but it does not make the antenna itself more efficient.

In summary, a tuned antenna is the best solution for performance and efficiency. A coupler is a practical workaround, not a replacement for a well-designed antenna.

Making your own Coupler

You can make your own antenna coupler, and many people do—especially for learning and basic radio use.

A homemade antenna coupler is usually built as a passive matching network using inductors (coils) and capacitors. These parts are arranged in common configurations such as L-networks, T-networks, or π-networks, which allow the antenna’s impedance to be transformed to match the transmitter.

Building your own coupler has several advantages. It helps you understand impedance matching, SWR, and how RF circuits work. Homemade couplers can also be inexpensive and customized for a specific frequency range or antenna.
However, there are also limitations. A DIY coupler usually requires manual adjustment, careful construction, and testing with an SWR meter. Poor layout or low-quality components can cause losses or limit the power it can safely handle.

Making your own antenna coupler is possible and educational, especially for simple or low-power systems. For convenience, wide-frequency coverage, or higher power, commercial automatic couplers are often the better choice.

What about you?

Have you got one? What bands do you use it for and why? Have you built your own or bought one? Do you prefer a manual over an automatic coupler?


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Antennas

Amateur radio operators use many different antenna types, each designed for specific bands, space limits, and operating goals. Here’s a clear overview of the most common ones and why hams choose them.

Wire Antennas

These are some of the simplest and most popular antennas that include:

Dipole Antennas

  • Two equal wire sections fed in the center
  • Very efficient and easy to build
  • Works well on HF bands
  • Often used as a first antenna

End-fed wire

  • Fed at one end instead of the center
  • Easy to install in limited space
  • Needs a matching unit (tuner or transformer)

Inverted-V

  • A dipole with the center high and the ends sloping down
  • Takes up less horizontal space
  • Good all-around performance

Vertical antennas

Vertical antennas stand upright and radiate equally in all directions.

  • Popular for HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Good for DX (long-distance) contacts
  • Require a good ground system or radials
  • Common on small lots or rooftops

Verticals are great when you want omnidirectional coverage without rotating an antenna.

Directional antennas

These antennas focus energy in specific directions. They include:

Yagi Antennas

  • One driven element with reflector(s) and director(s)
  • High gain and directivity
  • Common on HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Usually mounted on towers and rotors

Beam Antennas

  • General term for directional antennas
  • Help reduce noise and interference
  • Ideal for contesting and DXing

Loop antennas

Loop antennas use a closed loop of wire or tubing. They include:

Full-wave loops

  • Large, efficient, and low noise
  • Often used on HF bands

Magnetic loops

  • Much smaller
  • Useful in apartments or noisy environments
  • Narrow bandwidth, needs careful tuning

VHF/UHF antennas

Used mainly for local and line-of-sight communication. They include:

Ground-plane

  • Simple vertical antenna
  • Common for 2 m and 70 cm

Collinear

  • Stacked vertical elements
  • More gain for repeater and FM use

Handheld “rubber duck”

  • Compact and portable
  • Less efficient but very convenient

Portable and special-purpose antennas

  • Whip antennas for mobile use
  • NVIS antennas for regional HF coverage
  • Stealth antennas designed to be hidden
  • Satellite antennas (often crossed Yagis)

Choosing the right antenna

Amateur Radio Operators usually decide what antenna to used based on:

  • Available space
  • Frequency bands
  • Operating style (local, DX, portable)
  • Budget and installation limits

A simple, well-installed antenna often outperforms a complex one installed poorly.

How do I increase Antenna Gain?

Increasing antenna gain means focusing the radio signal more efficiently rather than increasing transmitter power. One of the most effective ways is to use a directional antenna, like a Yagi or beam, instead of an omnidirectional antenna such as a dipole or vertical. Directional antennas concentrate energy in a specific direction, providing stronger signals and reducing interference from unwanted directions.

You can also look at mounting your antenna higher. The old thought of Height is Might come into play. It’s true to a point, especially if you go higher and can now talk over obstacles like hills or buildings.

Another way to increase gain is by adding more elements to antennas like Yagis. Each additional director slightly increases forward gain, allowing for stronger transmission over long distances. Similarly, antenna height plays a major role in effective gain: raising antennas above obstacles improves the radiation angle, enhances long-distance (DX) contacts, and benefits line-of-sight communication on VHF and UHF bands.

Advanced techniques include stacking antennas, where two or more identical antennas are combined with proper spacing and phasing to achieve extra gain. Even without changing antennas, improving efficiency can boost effective gain. This includes using low-loss coax, keeping feedlines short, installing sufficient radials for verticals, and tuning the antenna to achieve a low SWR, which ensures most energy is radiated rather than lost.

In short, achieving higher gain relies on focusing energy, increasing elements, raising antenna height, and reducing losses. Choosing the right antenna depends on your operating goals, such as DX contacts or local coverage, and your available space and budget.

What about you?

So what antenna have you used and has it worked well or not at all? Which antenna did I miss above?

I’m keen to get your thoughts so please add a comment below.


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Dipole Antenna for Portable Use – Make your own!

A dipole antenna is a basic radio antenna made of two conductive elements fed at the center. It is typically a half-wavelength long and is widely used as a reference antenna in antenna theory and practice.

Dipole antennas work by converting alternating current into electromagnetic waves. Their radiation pattern is strongest perpendicular to the antenna and weakest along its axis, forming a donut-shaped pattern in three dimensions.

The orientation of a dipole antenna determines its polarization. A horizontal dipole produces horizontally polarized waves, while a vertical dipole produces vertically polarized waves. Matching polarization improves signal strength.

A half-wave dipole has an impedance of about 73 ohms in free space, which closely matches common coaxial cables. Proper impedance matching improves efficiency and reduces signal reflections.

When a dipole is installed close to the ground, near objects, or in an inverted-V shape, its impedance naturally drops from ~73 ohms toward 50 ohms. Many real-world dipoles end up near 50 ohms without extra components.

A folded dipole has about 300 ohms impedance, but using a 4:1 balun converts it to 75 ohms, and further matching can bring it to 50 ohms if needed.

Common types include half-wave, folded, short, and inverted-V dipoles. Dipole antennas are used in FM radio, television, amateur radio, and as components of directional antenna arrays.

My Antenna

Below is the antenna I made and tested. This video will show you how I did it, and why. I share some tips I learned along the way. But I would also value your thoughts.

The app I used to get the measurements from is this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.daveyhollenberg.amateurradiotoolkit

However you can get lots of different apps that will do this. Or you can use the simple formula to work it out in metric or imperial.

My portable setup

Below are some videos on my portable setup which you may enjoy.


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Interference

Interference in Amateur Radio refers to unwanted signals that disrupt radio communication. This interference can reduce signal clarity, make contacts difficult, or completely block communication between amateur radio operators.

Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) is one of the most common problems in amateur radio. It often comes from man-made electronic devices such as phone chargers, computers, LED lights, televisions, and power supplies. These devices can produce continuous noise or buzzing sounds across radio bands.

Natural Interference also affects amateur radio operations. Lightning causes static noise, while solar activity can disrupt or enhance signals, especially on HF bands. Atmospheric conditions play a major role in how radio waves travel and how much noise is present.

Adjacent Channel Interference and Harmonics occur when signals spill over into nearby frequencies or when transmitters emit unwanted signals outside their assigned band. This is usually caused by poor filtering, excessive power, or improperly adjusted equipment.

Managing and Reducing Interference is an important responsibility for amateur radio operators. Techniques include proper grounding, using quality cables, installing filters, adding ferrite chokes, and ensuring transmitters produce clean signals.

Rules and Responsibilities in Amateur Radio require operators to avoid causing harmful interference, accept interference from other legal users, and correct any problems their station may cause. Cooperation among amateur radio operators helps identify and resolve interference issues effectively.

Options

Amateur radio interference can be reduced by controlling unwanted radio-frequency (RF) energy and improving how equipment handles it. One of the most effective methods is using ferrite chokes on coaxial cables, power leads, and the cables of affected devices. These chokes block RF from traveling along cables and significantly reduce interference.

Good grounding and bonding are also essential. The radio, power supply, and antenna system should be properly grounded, with metal parts bonded together using short, thick wires. A single, well-designed ground point helps prevent RF from spreading into household wiring and electronics.

The antenna system plays a major role in interference. A properly tuned antenna with low SWR reduces stray RF, and placing the antenna farther from buildings and electronics helps limit interference. Using baluns or common-mode chokes at the antenna feed point can further prevent RF from flowing back along the coax.

Interference can also be reduced by lowering transmit power to only what is necessary and by using filters such as low-pass or band-pass filters. Replacing or relocating noisy household electronics—like cheap power adapters or LED lights—can improve reception. Finally, using shielded cables, keeping wiring short, and changing frequency or band when needed can help minimize interference even further.

What about you?

I would love to hear what you have experienced and done about radio interference. Did you cause it? Did you experience it? What helped?


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The 6-Meter Amateur Radio Band

What Is the 6m Band?

The 6-meter band, spanning roughly 50–54 MHz, is a section of the VHF spectrum assigned to amateur radio operators.

Its wavelength is six meters, and its position between HF and VHF makes it behave like a mix of both services.

Why It’s Called the “Magic Band”

6 meters has an almost unpredictable personality.

Sometimes it acts like a local VHF band; other times it opens up suddenly and supports long-distance DX like HF.

Because of these rapid and surprising changes, operators refer to it as the Magic Band.

Contacts I had across to Europe

Propagation Characteristics

6 meters supports a wide range of radio propagation mechanisms:

Sporadic-E

Dense patches of ionization in the E-layer

Allows contacts hundreds to thousands of kilometers away

Most common from late spring through summer and again in winter

F-Layer / F2 Propagation

Appears during strong solar activity

Enables global, long-haul communication

Can keep the band open for long stretches

Tropospheric Enhancement

Weather-related bending in the lower atmosphere

Extends VHF-range signals over much longer distances

Meteor Scatter

Radio waves reflect off meteor trails

Excellent during meteor showers

Modern digital modes—especially MSK144—dominate this technique

Auroral Propagation

Signals scatter from auroral activity

Produces a very distinct, rough sound

Common at northern latitudes

Trans-Equatorial Propagation (TEP)

Occurs near the geomagnetic equator

Allows north–south DX paths across continents

Modes of Operation

6 meters accommodates virtually every common amateur mode

Weak-Signal & DX

SSB, CW

Digital

FT8 (primary mode for most openings)

FT4, JT65

MSK144 (meteor scatter)

FM

Simplex and repeater use in certain regions

AM

Niche but still used by some hobbyists

Equipment and Antennas

Radio

Many modern HF transceivers include the 6-meter band. Examples include:

Icom IC-7300

Yaesu FT-991A

Icom IC-705

Dedicated 6-meter rigs and transverters are also popular among weak-signal operators.

Antennas

6-meter antennas are small enough to install easily yet large enough to perform well.

Common options:

Dipoles

Verticals (good for FM)

Yagis (excellent for DX)

Moxons

Loops

End-fed half waves

Even a small Yagi can work impressive DX during an opening.

Seasonal and Solar Patterns

May–August: Prime Sporadic-E season

December–January: Smaller Es season

Active solar years: Best chances for worldwide F2 propagation

Meteor showers: Ideal for MSK144 activity

What Makes 6 Meters Appealing

Sudden, exciting band openings

Possibility of worldwide communication with small antennas

Plenty of room for experimentation

A wide variety of propagation modes

Generally less crowded than HF

The band blends scientific curiosity, operating skill, and pure luck — which is exactly why many operators love it.

Example

I love 6m when it is active. But I also love 6m when it isn’t open as a few of us use it to chat on it.

The Japanese love 6m. They seem to use it all year perhaps because they don’t need the band to be open to use it and talk across their country.

Below is a video where the band was open for a few minutes. Only a few contacts were made and I happen to be one of them.

After my contact, the bad suddenly closed, making this contact all the more special.


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Diamond Antenna W-8010 and expanding it to all bands

I purchased the Diamond W series W8010 antenna and quickly put it together. The instructions were a bit hard to read as it was exceedingly small. However, I found someone who did a video on how to put it together. (this is not my video)

To me, an antenna is far more important than the power you put out and the radio you own. You can make a fantastic contact on an extremely old radio on a good well positioned antenna. But if you have a bad antenna and a fantastic radio, you may find it a bit harder.

Tip when tuning

The above video, and instructions will tell you when tuning the antenna to cut the tuning wires to length. Instead, I folded the tuning wires back on themselves towards the centre of the antenna. You may need to fold back a little more than you would have cut off, but if you ever need to move the antenna, you will need to re-tune it and you cannot re-tune it if you have cut the tunning wires off already.

So, for my antenna, all I did was set up the antenna where the wires were greater than 30 degrees from each other, and then bend the tuning wires on themselves with electrical tape. For one of the bands, I took the tuning wires completely off.

As my antenna is on the roof, I had to adjust and climb down many times and check the radio before trying again. At one stage I got a helper who stayed in the shack, and I stayed on the roof. However me being on the roof affected the antenna, even if I wasn’t near it. One of the bands wouldn’t tune in, but when I was sure it was right, I went off the roof and then it worked fine without me on the roof. Maybe my antenna doesn’t like the site of me!

Review of W-8010

This W-8010 antenna is a good cheap antenna that does a decent job. It isn’t hard to install and put together and covers several bands once you get it up and going. I was expecting it to take a lot longer than it did. It doesn’t need a huge mast and if you have the space, can be installed so it doesn’t look too bad either.

I managed to get this antenna working on all bands as advertised except 80m. I am still trying to get this band to work. I understand the antenna is very narrow on this band when I purchased it, so I expected tuning to be difficult. Given the antenna is above the house on new tiles, I didn’t want to climb on the roof to many times, so I tried several times while tuning the other bands, but ended up giving it away. Each time I get on the roof I adjust it a little, then try again, but I have almost given up and sure it won’t work right across the band either. 80m is my main issue with this band.

Expanding the W-8010 antenna to WARC Bands

After tuning in the antenna, I wondered if I could modify it to also be usable on the WARC bands. It was a little frustrating hearing people talk on the other bands yet couldn’t talk to them as I didn’t have a resident antenna.

I found some coaxial cable on the footpath on my morning walk. It was against a power pole and looked like the same cable used for pay TV which was above me at the time. I had a closer look at it, and noticed it was RG66 which is 75-ohm, but also had a strong wire wrapped in next to the coax. So, using this wire, I could hang it and put all the strain on the wire, and not the coax. Better still it was free!

So how much do I need for which band I hear you ask, especially since I am using 75-ohm not 50-ohm coax?

To calculate the lengths, you need is easy. Just work out what frequency you want to use. Try one in the middle of the range of the band you want to use. Then with this frequency, use the following formula:

Dipole total length in meters: 143 / frequency in MHz

This total length in the above is from point to point, so you need to half that for both sides of the dipole. But before you cut, don’t only measure twice (as they say in the building industry), but cut it longer than you need. It is a lot easier to trim the ends off than stick the ends back on! As I said earlier, I was using RG66 75-ohm coax, so these measurements may not be exact. But it also depends on how your antenna is mounted. For me, I added about a metre to each length so when I was on the roof, I knew it was about a metre longer than it should be. Depending on the band and length, you may want to leave more or less on it.

I first got it all working at a height I could reach, as I got sick of climbing up the ladder hundreds of times. Once it worked, I put it to the height I wanted, but it needed to be re-tuned again. Ah! If I had cut the wire, guess what, I would have had fun trying to extend my coax on the roof! You can see below how I folded the wire back on itself. As mentioned, this coax is RG66 and has a wire next to it. You can see this small wire in the photo that isn’t folded back and it supporting the coax on the nail. Don’t worry, this wasn’t my final setup, I was still tuning when I took the photo. It is secured a lot better than this now.

I noticed a lot of birds sat on some of my wires that were almost horizontal, and I was concerned their weight might break the antenna. About the same time, we were throwing out our old trampoline, so I kept some of the springs and have used them after the insulator and the mounting point. This may give the antenna a few more years of life hopefully.

Hope you enjoyed this read. What is your experience with Dipole antennas? What tricks have you learnt? I have been making antennas for some years, but really don’t think I am an experienced antenna builder. Please add your comments below so we can all learn from you.

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