Antennas

Amateur radio operators use many different antenna types, each designed for specific bands, space limits, and operating goals. Here’s a clear overview of the most common ones and why hams choose them.

Wire Antennas

These are some of the simplest and most popular antennas that include:

Dipole Antennas

  • Two equal wire sections fed in the center
  • Very efficient and easy to build
  • Works well on HF bands
  • Often used as a first antenna

End-fed wire

  • Fed at one end instead of the center
  • Easy to install in limited space
  • Needs a matching unit (tuner or transformer)

Inverted-V

  • A dipole with the center high and the ends sloping down
  • Takes up less horizontal space
  • Good all-around performance

Vertical antennas

Vertical antennas stand upright and radiate equally in all directions.

  • Popular for HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Good for DX (long-distance) contacts
  • Require a good ground system or radials
  • Common on small lots or rooftops

Verticals are great when you want omnidirectional coverage without rotating an antenna.

Directional antennas

These antennas focus energy in specific directions. They include:

Yagi Antennas

  • One driven element with reflector(s) and director(s)
  • High gain and directivity
  • Common on HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Usually mounted on towers and rotors

Beam Antennas

  • General term for directional antennas
  • Help reduce noise and interference
  • Ideal for contesting and DXing

Loop antennas

Loop antennas use a closed loop of wire or tubing. They include:

Full-wave loops

  • Large, efficient, and low noise
  • Often used on HF bands

Magnetic loops

  • Much smaller
  • Useful in apartments or noisy environments
  • Narrow bandwidth, needs careful tuning

VHF/UHF antennas

Used mainly for local and line-of-sight communication. They include:

Ground-plane

  • Simple vertical antenna
  • Common for 2 m and 70 cm

Collinear

  • Stacked vertical elements
  • More gain for repeater and FM use

Handheld “rubber duck”

  • Compact and portable
  • Less efficient but very convenient

Portable and special-purpose antennas

  • Whip antennas for mobile use
  • NVIS antennas for regional HF coverage
  • Stealth antennas designed to be hidden
  • Satellite antennas (often crossed Yagis)

Choosing the right antenna

Amateur Radio Operators usually decide what antenna to used based on:

  • Available space
  • Frequency bands
  • Operating style (local, DX, portable)
  • Budget and installation limits

A simple, well-installed antenna often outperforms a complex one installed poorly.

How do I increase Antenna Gain?

Increasing antenna gain means focusing the radio signal more efficiently rather than increasing transmitter power. One of the most effective ways is to use a directional antenna, like a Yagi or beam, instead of an omnidirectional antenna such as a dipole or vertical. Directional antennas concentrate energy in a specific direction, providing stronger signals and reducing interference from unwanted directions.

You can also look at mounting your antenna higher. The old thought of Height is Might come into play. It’s true to a point, especially if you go higher and can now talk over obstacles like hills or buildings.

Another way to increase gain is by adding more elements to antennas like Yagis. Each additional director slightly increases forward gain, allowing for stronger transmission over long distances. Similarly, antenna height plays a major role in effective gain: raising antennas above obstacles improves the radiation angle, enhances long-distance (DX) contacts, and benefits line-of-sight communication on VHF and UHF bands.

Advanced techniques include stacking antennas, where two or more identical antennas are combined with proper spacing and phasing to achieve extra gain. Even without changing antennas, improving efficiency can boost effective gain. This includes using low-loss coax, keeping feedlines short, installing sufficient radials for verticals, and tuning the antenna to achieve a low SWR, which ensures most energy is radiated rather than lost.

In short, achieving higher gain relies on focusing energy, increasing elements, raising antenna height, and reducing losses. Choosing the right antenna depends on your operating goals, such as DX contacts or local coverage, and your available space and budget.

What about you?

So what antenna have you used and has it worked well or not at all? Which antenna did I miss above?

I’m keen to get your thoughts so please add a comment below.


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Dipole Antenna for Portable Use – Make your own!

A dipole antenna is a basic radio antenna made of two conductive elements fed at the center. It is typically a half-wavelength long and is widely used as a reference antenna in antenna theory and practice.

Dipole antennas work by converting alternating current into electromagnetic waves. Their radiation pattern is strongest perpendicular to the antenna and weakest along its axis, forming a donut-shaped pattern in three dimensions.

The orientation of a dipole antenna determines its polarization. A horizontal dipole produces horizontally polarized waves, while a vertical dipole produces vertically polarized waves. Matching polarization improves signal strength.

A half-wave dipole has an impedance of about 73 ohms in free space, which closely matches common coaxial cables. Proper impedance matching improves efficiency and reduces signal reflections.

When a dipole is installed close to the ground, near objects, or in an inverted-V shape, its impedance naturally drops from ~73 ohms toward 50 ohms. Many real-world dipoles end up near 50 ohms without extra components.

A folded dipole has about 300 ohms impedance, but using a 4:1 balun converts it to 75 ohms, and further matching can bring it to 50 ohms if needed.

Common types include half-wave, folded, short, and inverted-V dipoles. Dipole antennas are used in FM radio, television, amateur radio, and as components of directional antenna arrays.

My Antenna

Below is the antenna I made and tested. This video will show you how I did it, and why. I share some tips I learned along the way. But I would also value your thoughts.

The app I used to get the measurements from is this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.daveyhollenberg.amateurradiotoolkit

However you can get lots of different apps that will do this. Or you can use the simple formula to work it out in metric or imperial.

My portable setup

Below are some videos on my portable setup which you may enjoy.


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  • 6m and TV Channel 0
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6m and TV Channel 0

Prior to 1989, it was illegal to operate between 50 MHz and 52 MHz in Australia. It was a real pain as that was where all the action was when the band opened up.

My original 6m radio – still works today

However, after many requests from the WIA to the DoTC back in 1989, it was agreed that this section of the 6m band could be used with some minor amendments.

VK5, VK6, VK8, VK9 & VK0

It was decided VK5, VK6, VK8, VK9 & VK0 stations may operate anywhere between 50 – 52 MHz provided there was no interference caused to the reception of Channel 0 transmissions up to a maximum of 400 watts.

VK2, VK3, VK4 & VK7 (eastern states)

Stations located in VK2, VK3, VK4 & VK7 are permitted to operate provided there was no interference caused to the reception of Channel 0 in the sub-band 50.05 – 50.20 MHz provided they are:

  • 120 km from Channel 0 main television stations
  • 60 km from Channel 0 translator stations
  • 60 km from translator stations with Channel 0 inputs, and
  • They must only use emission modes of CW and SSB with a maximum of 100 watts.

VK1 ACT

Stations in VK1 can do the same as other eastern states but without the distance restrictions.

Today

Well that was back in 1989, today TV is all digital and the band is less restrictive now.

A short time ago I happened to make contact with Japan on 6m and also happened to be recording as well. You can watch the whole thing here:

You can see my 6m antenna in this video:

If you want to know more about 6m, see more information here. https://vk3tbs.home.blog/category/amateur-radio/hf/6m/

I personally love 6m and the challenge of it. It works well locally and well when the band is open. But it can close suddenly without notice. Sometimes I’ve spoken long distances and either has received no signal strength at all, but a full S5 copy.

I also enjoy adjusting between vertical and horizontal polarisation.

If you enjoyed this read, please take the time to like and follow this blog. Or let me know what you think of 6m from where you are in the comments below.


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The 6-Meter Amateur Radio Band

What Is the 6m Band?

The 6-meter band, spanning roughly 50–54 MHz, is a section of the VHF spectrum assigned to amateur radio operators.

Its wavelength is six meters, and its position between HF and VHF makes it behave like a mix of both services.

Why It’s Called the “Magic Band”

6 meters has an almost unpredictable personality.

Sometimes it acts like a local VHF band; other times it opens up suddenly and supports long-distance DX like HF.

Because of these rapid and surprising changes, operators refer to it as the Magic Band.

Contacts I had across to Europe

Propagation Characteristics

6 meters supports a wide range of radio propagation mechanisms:

Sporadic-E

Dense patches of ionization in the E-layer

Allows contacts hundreds to thousands of kilometers away

Most common from late spring through summer and again in winter

F-Layer / F2 Propagation

Appears during strong solar activity

Enables global, long-haul communication

Can keep the band open for long stretches

Tropospheric Enhancement

Weather-related bending in the lower atmosphere

Extends VHF-range signals over much longer distances

Meteor Scatter

Radio waves reflect off meteor trails

Excellent during meteor showers

Modern digital modes—especially MSK144—dominate this technique

Auroral Propagation

Signals scatter from auroral activity

Produces a very distinct, rough sound

Common at northern latitudes

Trans-Equatorial Propagation (TEP)

Occurs near the geomagnetic equator

Allows north–south DX paths across continents

Modes of Operation

6 meters accommodates virtually every common amateur mode

Weak-Signal & DX

SSB, CW

Digital

FT8 (primary mode for most openings)

FT4, JT65

MSK144 (meteor scatter)

FM

Simplex and repeater use in certain regions

AM

Niche but still used by some hobbyists

Equipment and Antennas

Radio

Many modern HF transceivers include the 6-meter band. Examples include:

Icom IC-7300

Yaesu FT-991A

Icom IC-705

Dedicated 6-meter rigs and transverters are also popular among weak-signal operators.

Antennas

6-meter antennas are small enough to install easily yet large enough to perform well.

Common options:

Dipoles

Verticals (good for FM)

Yagis (excellent for DX)

Moxons

Loops

End-fed half waves

Even a small Yagi can work impressive DX during an opening.

Seasonal and Solar Patterns

May–August: Prime Sporadic-E season

December–January: Smaller Es season

Active solar years: Best chances for worldwide F2 propagation

Meteor showers: Ideal for MSK144 activity

What Makes 6 Meters Appealing

Sudden, exciting band openings

Possibility of worldwide communication with small antennas

Plenty of room for experimentation

A wide variety of propagation modes

Generally less crowded than HF

The band blends scientific curiosity, operating skill, and pure luck — which is exactly why many operators love it.

Example

I love 6m when it is active. But I also love 6m when it isn’t open as a few of us use it to chat on it.

The Japanese love 6m. They seem to use it all year perhaps because they don’t need the band to be open to use it and talk across their country.

Below is a video where the band was open for a few minutes. Only a few contacts were made and I happen to be one of them.

After my contact, the bad suddenly closed, making this contact all the more special.


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  • Yaesu FT-620
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Yaesu FT-620

The Yaesu FT-620 (and its updated version, the FT-620B) is a vintage amateur radio transceiver designed specifically for the 6-meter band (50–54 MHz). Produced in the 1970s, it offers support for AM, CW, and SSB (USB/LSB) modes, making it a versatile rig for its time, especially during the era when 6 meters was gaining popularity for both local and DX communications. It was part of Yaesu’s early generation of VHF monoband rigs, built with a solid metal chassis and analog controls, reflecting the rugged, durable engineering of the period.

In terms of performance, the FT-620 delivers approximately 20 watts PEP on SSB and CW, and around 4–8 watts on AM. Receiver sensitivity is quite good for a rig of its era, typically around 0.5 µV for 10 dB S/N in SSB/CW modes. The transceiver divides the 6-meter band into multiple segments using a bandswitch, and offers decent selectivity for SSB and CW operation. It can be powered from AC mains or 12–14 VDC, providing some flexibility for mobile or backup use. However, it lacks FM capability, which limits its use with modern 6m FM repeaters or simplex FM operations.

While the FT-620 is highly regarded for its build quality and straightforward analog operation, it does show its age. There’s no digital display, DSP, or modern filtering, and some units may require refurbishment—such as replacing aging capacitors or realigning circuits for optimal performance. Its bulk and weight (~8 kg) also make it less convenient for portable use. Nonetheless, for those interested in classic radios or operating 6 meters on SSB/CW, it remains a capable and enjoyable rig, particularly when paired with a good antenna.

Overall, the FT-620 is best suited to enthusiasts who appreciate vintage gear and are willing to maintain it. It still holds practical value today in the right hands—especially for those focused on SSB or CW operation during band openings. While it won’t compete with modern rigs in terms of features or integration, its simplicity, durability, and vintage charm continue to appeal to collectors and seasoned hams alike.

See my video below where I fire it up and give it a test.

See me fire up this old girl

More interesting reads

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Yaesu 857D

A great radio that does all bands up to 70cm. Using all modes also you can talk on SSB on VHF and UHF.

If you haven’t done SSB on 2m and 70cm, then I’d encourage you to do so. it is a lot of fun.

This radio will do it and so will a lot of the old radios. There are very few new ones that do it now.

Some very old radios only do SSB on one band or another.

Please see my review of the 857D. It’s a great old radio but so small in size making it an ideal portable or mobile radio.


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Yaesu FT-225R

The 2m band has always been an interesting one for me. It used to be swamped with pager interference, but it actually is a great band. Inversion allows your signal to travel long distances at times, especially on SSB.

This video is about the Yaesu FT-225R 2m all band radio. While the radio is huge, it is a beautiful radio any collector would love to have.

If you want to look at the manual, you can look at it here. I love these old manuals, where they state every component in them as well as circuit diagrams.

According to all reports, I sounded excellent on receive and I loved the sound from it on revive at my end also. You can plug in an external speaker, but I was happy with what it had.

Special thanks to Michael VK3CMC who let me use the radio so I could access the 2m SSB net.

The FT-225R

The two metre band probably should be used more than it is, but it is a good fun band.

Hopefully we can make contact with each other on that band one day!


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Remote testing Antennas

I’ve always wanted to take the radio with me while on holidays and I always do. However I’ve always been limited to 2m and 70cm including local repeaters and digital work.

Our family enjoy holidays all over Australia into some of the most remote places without water, power or any mobile signal. Sometimes this can last week’s at a time.

If your keen to learn more about our travels around Australia and learn more, please let me know.

Most of these remote locations means limited activity on 2m or 70cm as there are no repeaters for days!

Because of this remoteness, there are several outback radio networks we can join or listen to. They make quite interesting listening.

However, when on holidays, we amateurs don’t want to just listen, we want to be part of the action! And HF is the next best thing.

I’m currently on holiday in the Victorian high country, also known as “The Man from Snowy River” country. It is rugged, beautiful and high. So up here I can actually can receive several 2m and 70cm repeaters, but this is a good test for HF work.

High up on Mount Buffalo

With me, I brought a battery pack, that has a 12 volt lithium battery which we run our camping fridge off.  I now run my HF gear off it!

I also brought my new QT-80 radio, which is small in size yet puts out 80 watts.  I have placed a video below on this radio if you are not familiar with it.

I used a magnet mount antenna base as the car I was using is not mine. This mount sticks to the car like glue, but also comes off on demand so you can adjust the antenna as required.

I brought two antennas to test.  The first one was the HF-008 antenna that covers more bands than the QT80.  I have a video on both these below for you if you are not familiar with it.

I also brought the new CBL-561 HF antenna so I could compare the two antennas. This antenna can be used while mobile unlike the HF-008 antenna. I have another video for you to show you that antenna below:

Before leaving home, I went to the hardware store and bought two lengths of pipe with caps that could safely store each antenna. I could then almost throw them in the boot of the car and not be worried about them being damaged or caught on something as I pulled them out of the boot.

Hot Tip

The funny thing was, while on holidays, I forgot to bring a measuring tape to adjust the antenna. Fortunately one of my children had a ruler with them so I was able to mark measurements down the side of the tube with a sharpie.

I also wrote down next to the measurements the lengths Radioddity recommended and then as I tuned in the antenna myself with the lowest SWR, I marked the pipe to my best measurements which were very close to the same as Radioddity.

This Tip I am sure will be very useful going forward when I’m out in the Australian outback or somewhere that I have no ruler!

Results

Both antennas fitted the same magnetic base which made this setup work well.

On testing both antennas using the same frequency to the same long distance contact, I and they couldn’t tell the difference between us. I found both antennas easy to tune in and get the SWA right down before making any contacts.

I then tried again from the top of Mount Buffalo, one of our highest mountains and got the same results where both myself and the contacts I spoke to didn’t know I had even changed the antenna.

There are differences between the antennas though which may help you decide which antenna is right for you.

Compare Antennas

HF-008

This antenna covers a lot of HF bands, as covered in the video above. However it cannot be used while mobile, mainly due to the jumper cable. It is a great antenna and can be used with a radio that puts out a lot more watts than the small QT-80 radio I used.

CBL-561

The CBL-561R antenna does not cover as many HF bands as the HF-008 does, but if you are using the bands it does cover, then this antenna might be good for you. One big advantage to this antenna is that it can be used while mobile, not just stationary.

Both antennas will need adjusting if you switch bands or switch from one end of the band to another. So setting the antenna to a permanent mount on the car on the top of the roof where it ends up out of reach, then you may want to rethink this. I found the magnet mount ideal, as you can still have it on the highest point of the car and access it easily.

Another option I also use is a bull bar mount that I use on my 4×4.

I’d encourage you to watch my video below as it explains what I discovered.

Remember the old saying Hight is Might and going portable gives you an opportunity to test this theory.


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Baofeng GT-5R Pro

The first thing I noticed after receiving the radio was the size of the radio. It is small yet not to small that it is hard to use. It fits comfortably in your hand.

Not only is it physically small, the price is amazingly small also. How I would have loved to have this radio when I started in the hobby 35 years ago!

Saying that, I see this as a great entry level budget radio. Or a small radio for camping or in the car rather than putting an expensive radio in.

The GT-5R PRO is an enhanced version of the classic GT-5R, capable of receiving a wider range of frequency bands including UHF, VHF, FM, NOAA, Airband, 1.25M, and 1M.

I was easily able to program the radio via the keypad putting in my local repeaters with the required offset and tone squelch.
But it was even easier to program it via Chirp Next and I have a video on how to do that.

It is a 5 watt radio complete with VOX if you want to go hands free.

The GT-5R PRO is fully compatible with the UV-5R’s accessories. Such as the car charger, speaker mic, ear piece, antennas plus more.

The GT-5R Pro comes in a standard single-unit version as well as a kit version that includes a long antenna and programming cable. I got the kit version, so be shore when purchasing you know if you want the kit or the single unit version.

Contents
• Radio
• Fast desktop charger
• Antenna
• Long antenna
• Li-lon battery pack
• Wall adapter
• Belt clip

It supports UHF VHF dual band transmission and a wide range of reception frequency bands, including 136-174MHz, 400-520MHz, 76-108MHz, 108-136MHz, 200-260MHz, 350-390MHz, and NOAA weather channels.

Receiver Frequency:
FM 76-108 MHz;
AM 108-136 MHz;
VHF 136-174 MHz, 220-260 MHz;
UHF 350-390 MHz, 400-520 MHz

Transmission Frequency (US version): 144-148 & 420-450 MHz
Transmission Frequency (EU version): 144-146 & 430-440 MHz

It has 128 memory channels and I love how when you program them from the radio, you can see what has already been used.

  • 50 CTCSS tones and 210 DCS codes
  • SOS Emergency function
  • FM radio receiver (87.5-108MHz)
  • Channel or frequency mode selection
  • TOT (Time out timer)
  • Reverse function
  • CTCSS and DCS codes research
  • Busy Channel Lockout function (BCL)
  • Frequency step: 2.5/5/6.25/10/12.5/25KHZ
  • Repeater shift
  • VOICE: vocal indication of the function selected
  • Li-lon battery pack
  • VHF and UHF bands and channel name displayed
  • Squelch adjustable in 9 levels
  • 1750Hz tone for repeaters
  • LCD display with backlight adjustable in 3 colours
  • VOX, Scan, Dual Watch functions
  • Power Save
  • DTMF function
  • Alarm function
  • Setting and storing of channel names
  • High/low power selection
  • Frequency offset (adjustable): 0-69.990MHz
  • 2pin Kenwood accessory jack
  • Keypad lock
  • Battery allows direct charging from the DC port

Testing

I quickly made some contacts on both 2m and 70cm and both said my audio was great. I swapped antennas halfway though a conversation and found the small antenna better but that was just for one repeater. I plan on doing more tests in the coming weeks.

Programming Tip

Did you know you can program these radios via Chirp? Here is a great tip you may like with chirp.

Summary

When I received the radio, I was stunned at the price and thought I can’t really go wrong here. I didn’t check the hypnotics but everything else I checked worked well.

If you go via this link, you will get a discount:
https://radioddity.refr.cc/bensangster otherwise you can see it here: https://www.radioddity.com/products/baofeng-gt-5r-pro


If you enjoyed this read, here are some other ones you may be interested in.

EchoLink CQ

I’ve been using EchoLink well before smartphones where the only way I knew how to connect to a different station was via the radio. The internet wasn’t as extensive as it is now and you had to dial the node you wanted via the radio. You can still do this today but I don’t think anywhere near as many do it.

I always felt EchoLink was well ahead of its time. Started well before any digital radio was thought of. Connecting the world via the internet.

It was great to be able to talk to the UK or States while mobile on the way to work just using a small whip antenna on the car.

Given I’m in Australia, it can be difficult to remember when overseas nets are on, or what part of the world is awake and up for a chat and which ones are not. But EchoLink has a CQ feature.

Calling CQ

EchoLink had a CQ feature where you can call CQ and it will automatically connect to someone who is calling CQ also.

From the Stations screen select call CQ.

  • Then select your language.
  • Select the country, if you leave it as any, you will not limit your connection options
  • Select the node type, again, leave as any to start with
  • And you can skip recent if you want to.

Then press Call CQ

It will call CQ for a while searching for a connection that matches your settings. I find that sometimes it tries to connect to another node but can fail. This is perhaps because the connection drops out for whatever reason. Just try again.

The good thing about this option is you will get someone who is wanting to talk to someone just like you do!

What is your experience with EchoLink? What is your favourite nodes? Why don’t you put it in the comments below so we can all learn from your experiences.

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