Antennas

Amateur radio operators use many different antenna types, each designed for specific bands, space limits, and operating goals. Here’s a clear overview of the most common ones and why hams choose them.

Wire Antennas

These are some of the simplest and most popular antennas that include:

Dipole Antennas

  • Two equal wire sections fed in the center
  • Very efficient and easy to build
  • Works well on HF bands
  • Often used as a first antenna

End-fed wire

  • Fed at one end instead of the center
  • Easy to install in limited space
  • Needs a matching unit (tuner or transformer)

Inverted-V

  • A dipole with the center high and the ends sloping down
  • Takes up less horizontal space
  • Good all-around performance

Vertical antennas

Vertical antennas stand upright and radiate equally in all directions.

  • Popular for HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Good for DX (long-distance) contacts
  • Require a good ground system or radials
  • Common on small lots or rooftops

Verticals are great when you want omnidirectional coverage without rotating an antenna.

Directional antennas

These antennas focus energy in specific directions. They include:

Yagi Antennas

  • One driven element with reflector(s) and director(s)
  • High gain and directivity
  • Common on HF, VHF, and UHF
  • Usually mounted on towers and rotors

Beam Antennas

  • General term for directional antennas
  • Help reduce noise and interference
  • Ideal for contesting and DXing

Loop antennas

Loop antennas use a closed loop of wire or tubing. They include:

Full-wave loops

  • Large, efficient, and low noise
  • Often used on HF bands

Magnetic loops

  • Much smaller
  • Useful in apartments or noisy environments
  • Narrow bandwidth, needs careful tuning

VHF/UHF antennas

Used mainly for local and line-of-sight communication. They include:

Ground-plane

  • Simple vertical antenna
  • Common for 2 m and 70 cm

Collinear

  • Stacked vertical elements
  • More gain for repeater and FM use

Handheld “rubber duck”

  • Compact and portable
  • Less efficient but very convenient

Portable and special-purpose antennas

  • Whip antennas for mobile use
  • NVIS antennas for regional HF coverage
  • Stealth antennas designed to be hidden
  • Satellite antennas (often crossed Yagis)

Choosing the right antenna

Amateur Radio Operators usually decide what antenna to used based on:

  • Available space
  • Frequency bands
  • Operating style (local, DX, portable)
  • Budget and installation limits

A simple, well-installed antenna often outperforms a complex one installed poorly.

How do I increase Antenna Gain?

Increasing antenna gain means focusing the radio signal more efficiently rather than increasing transmitter power. One of the most effective ways is to use a directional antenna, like a Yagi or beam, instead of an omnidirectional antenna such as a dipole or vertical. Directional antennas concentrate energy in a specific direction, providing stronger signals and reducing interference from unwanted directions.

You can also look at mounting your antenna higher. The old thought of Height is Might come into play. It’s true to a point, especially if you go higher and can now talk over obstacles like hills or buildings.

Another way to increase gain is by adding more elements to antennas like Yagis. Each additional director slightly increases forward gain, allowing for stronger transmission over long distances. Similarly, antenna height plays a major role in effective gain: raising antennas above obstacles improves the radiation angle, enhances long-distance (DX) contacts, and benefits line-of-sight communication on VHF and UHF bands.

Advanced techniques include stacking antennas, where two or more identical antennas are combined with proper spacing and phasing to achieve extra gain. Even without changing antennas, improving efficiency can boost effective gain. This includes using low-loss coax, keeping feedlines short, installing sufficient radials for verticals, and tuning the antenna to achieve a low SWR, which ensures most energy is radiated rather than lost.

In short, achieving higher gain relies on focusing energy, increasing elements, raising antenna height, and reducing losses. Choosing the right antenna depends on your operating goals, such as DX contacts or local coverage, and your available space and budget.

What about you?

So what antenna have you used and has it worked well or not at all? Which antenna did I miss above?

I’m keen to get your thoughts so please add a comment below.


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Dipole Antenna for Portable Use – Make your own!

A dipole antenna is a basic radio antenna made of two conductive elements fed at the center. It is typically a half-wavelength long and is widely used as a reference antenna in antenna theory and practice.

Dipole antennas work by converting alternating current into electromagnetic waves. Their radiation pattern is strongest perpendicular to the antenna and weakest along its axis, forming a donut-shaped pattern in three dimensions.

The orientation of a dipole antenna determines its polarization. A horizontal dipole produces horizontally polarized waves, while a vertical dipole produces vertically polarized waves. Matching polarization improves signal strength.

A half-wave dipole has an impedance of about 73 ohms in free space, which closely matches common coaxial cables. Proper impedance matching improves efficiency and reduces signal reflections.

When a dipole is installed close to the ground, near objects, or in an inverted-V shape, its impedance naturally drops from ~73 ohms toward 50 ohms. Many real-world dipoles end up near 50 ohms without extra components.

A folded dipole has about 300 ohms impedance, but using a 4:1 balun converts it to 75 ohms, and further matching can bring it to 50 ohms if needed.

Common types include half-wave, folded, short, and inverted-V dipoles. Dipole antennas are used in FM radio, television, amateur radio, and as components of directional antenna arrays.

My Antenna

Below is the antenna I made and tested. This video will show you how I did it, and why. I share some tips I learned along the way. But I would also value your thoughts.

The app I used to get the measurements from is this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.daveyhollenberg.amateurradiotoolkit

However you can get lots of different apps that will do this. Or you can use the simple formula to work it out in metric or imperial.

My portable setup

Below are some videos on my portable setup which you may enjoy.


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Yaesu FT-620

The Yaesu FT-620 (and its updated version, the FT-620B) is a vintage amateur radio transceiver designed specifically for the 6-meter band (50–54 MHz). Produced in the 1970s, it offers support for AM, CW, and SSB (USB/LSB) modes, making it a versatile rig for its time, especially during the era when 6 meters was gaining popularity for both local and DX communications. It was part of Yaesu’s early generation of VHF monoband rigs, built with a solid metal chassis and analog controls, reflecting the rugged, durable engineering of the period.

In terms of performance, the FT-620 delivers approximately 20 watts PEP on SSB and CW, and around 4–8 watts on AM. Receiver sensitivity is quite good for a rig of its era, typically around 0.5 µV for 10 dB S/N in SSB/CW modes. The transceiver divides the 6-meter band into multiple segments using a bandswitch, and offers decent selectivity for SSB and CW operation. It can be powered from AC mains or 12–14 VDC, providing some flexibility for mobile or backup use. However, it lacks FM capability, which limits its use with modern 6m FM repeaters or simplex FM operations.

While the FT-620 is highly regarded for its build quality and straightforward analog operation, it does show its age. There’s no digital display, DSP, or modern filtering, and some units may require refurbishment—such as replacing aging capacitors or realigning circuits for optimal performance. Its bulk and weight (~8 kg) also make it less convenient for portable use. Nonetheless, for those interested in classic radios or operating 6 meters on SSB/CW, it remains a capable and enjoyable rig, particularly when paired with a good antenna.

Overall, the FT-620 is best suited to enthusiasts who appreciate vintage gear and are willing to maintain it. It still holds practical value today in the right hands—especially for those focused on SSB or CW operation during band openings. While it won’t compete with modern rigs in terms of features or integration, its simplicity, durability, and vintage charm continue to appeal to collectors and seasoned hams alike.

See my video below where I fire it up and give it a test.

See me fire up this old girl

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Anytone 778UV Key Assignment

Key Assignment

For some reason, not all the key assignment options are in the manual and after a bit of searching, I found no complete list.  Hopefully this below helps you in selecting your Key Assignments on the main unit P1-P6 keys, as well as on the microphone PA-PD keys. I have listed them in alphabetical order however under it I have how I have my radio set up.

SelectionDescription
A/BSwitch Main Display from A or B
BNDBandwidth (adjust for low signals)
CALCalibration (non-functional)
CDTCTCSS / DCS options
DIRDirection of display
MONDisables squelch
NULLWill make button do nothing.
POWPower Level, Low Med Hi
RDWDual Watch
REVReverse transmit offset and frequency
SCNScan, channels or frequencies
SFTFrequency Offset
SQLSquelch
TALKTurns TX off for any particular channel
TRFBusy channel lockout
VOLVolume Level, press to change volume instead of channel
VOXVox toggle on or off
V/MSwitch from VFO to Memory Channel

Please let me know if I got any wrong or have missed one.

This is how I have set mine up, but as I use the radio, I will change this to suit my needs:

P1A/B
P2V/M
P3MON
P4SCN
P5SQL
P6VOL
P1 mode 2DIR
P2 mode 2SFT
P3 mode 2RDW
P4 mode 2POW
P5 mode 2CDT
P6 mode 2BND
PASCN
PBVOL
PCPOW
PDRDW

So what are your thoughts on this? How do you setup your radio? Please let me know via the comments below.

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HamClock

HamClock has always fascinated me, as it seems such an amazing program specifically set up for Amateur Radio. I have seen countless videos on it but the draw back was always needing to have a Raspberry Pi. While I am not afraid to get one, and learn how to use it, I just didn’t feel like taking the plunge into that world just yet. Though I think that world is about to come, and I will end up regretting not doing it sooner!

So, what is HamClock?

Glad you asked. According to their website (https://www.clearskyinstitute.com/ham/HamClock/) HamClock is a kiosk-style application that provides real time space weather, radio propagation models, operating events and other information particularly useful to the radio amateur.

It is designed to provide ham radio enthusiasts with real-time information about the sun’s position, ionospheric conditions, and DX cluster spots. HamClock is an open source application which is a tool for the shack providing live up to date information all on one screen. It was originally written by Elwood Downey WB0OEW.

HamClock displays a map showing the sun’s position, illumination (daylight/darkness), and the “grey line” (the transition between day and night). This information is crucial for understanding propagation conditions, as the grey line is often a prime time for DX (long-distance) communication.

Usually it needs to be installed on Quadra or lynix, but I have recently found out you can install it on Windows.

Installing HamClock on Windows

Guess what, this is possible, and may feel overwhelming at first, but after following the video below, I was able to do it in real time along with this video. I was shocked how easy it was and super surprised I had not done this earlier.

The instructions (a text file) are available via this link, and are referred to in the video. https://www.clearskyinstitute.com/ham/HamClock/hamclock-contrib/HamClock%20Windows10.txt So, have the instructions open while you watch the video. Please note, this is not my video and you should do this at your own risk – however it worked for me easily!

Before doing the video, I suggest you read all the points below it as there were a couple of things I changed.

The video starts with music, but just do what it says. Then the author will talk you through the steps after the initial install.

The bit I got stuck on was setting up Cluster in HamClock. This is about 12:50 into the video, perhaps it was because I had an updated version of HamClock since the above video was done. So, instead, I put in the following settings:

Setting Up HamClock

There are countless ways to set up HamClock. As a starting point, I stuck with the video above as he shows you how to from 13:30. Below is a link to that point in the above video.

This video below is from a friend who also shows you in great detail how to set up your HamClock to get the most of it. Some things are slightly different, but after seeing this, you can have an informed choice.

I found this video below very good also, as it goes into detail regarding the map in HamClock. As you will see it is done by the same person. He talks about the maps and how to customise it easily.

After a Windows Reboot

When you next do a windows reboot, you will need to restart HamClock. To do this, open a CMD window by typing CMD in the windows search menu.

Then type in :

wsl sudo hamclock &

and put in your password you made for lynx and you should be able to open it again. Make sure you do n ot close the comand screen until you are finished.

Summary

Below is what my HamClock looks like. I like the background “terrain” map as well as the night and day showing on the map. I would value your thoughts though, as I know I am about the last one to finally get onto HamClock.

With all of these tools, we should remember propagation shown is using data, but the rest of it is predictions based on knowledge.

If these propagation tools show there isn’t anything happening, always give it a try anyway. You never know without trying. You may be higher than other stations, or put out more power. You might just get an opening before other stations.

All the propagation websites are a summary of conditions recorded and sent in. HamClock is a good tool, it looks good, and gives you a lot of information on the one screen. You can adjust it easily also.

Please tell me your thoughts, and what you think. Do you use it? Perhaps you use it differently and have some advice for me and other readers. Hope you enjoyed the read.


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